Help with planer wiring?

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I'm trying to test the motor on a Foley-Belsaw planer-molder. I want to say it's a 995.

The on/off switch is missing its key; a replacement is $90. It locks in off position without the key.

To try to get around that to test the motor, I tied together the black and white leads that go to the power switch. I opened the lid, as there's a contact under it to shut off the unit if the lid is opened. I found that contact taped closed. Ugh.

Anyway, I removed the belts from the motor to the planer and plugged the unit in (220V outlet; 220V motor). What I'm assuming is a red magnetic switch depressed automatically, with no other action from the motor.

From there I've stopped and am reaching out for assistance.

Any help? If I can test the motor I'll move forward.

[Stwood_]

That locked switch energizes the contactor switch.

With the unit plugged in, you should be able to push the contactor switch in. Use a wooden stick. The red plastic in front there should move in.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

That contactor moves in on its own when I apply power by plugging it into the wall.

Nothing else happens.

[Stwood_]

Then you'll need to apply 220 directly to the motor from that switch. (to tell if it's the switch or motor.
I don't know if I can explain how to do that properly without sparks flying.

When that red thingie-m-bobbie
 goes in, do you have a voltage tester to see if juice is flowing to the motor wiring? You shoud have 2 wires turn hot from that switch.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I pulled the other cable from the starter and connected it to the motor, turned the breaker off, and plugged it in. Flipped the breaker. Motor ran with no hesitation.

Now I need to find out how to test whether the starter is bad.

[Stwood_]

 

So the starter engages (red thingie moves)  but does not fire the motor.

Apparently a bad connection, broken wire, or the contacts inside the switch are bad/misaligned/burnt.

Is this the older tan colored hood foley?

If you have a normal contactor switch such as what is on your tablesaw, it would bypass all the other stuff. But of course, it would bypass the non-working safety switch under the hood.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I'm not concerned with getting the Belsaw running (it's the tan model, not the older green one). My intent is to scavenge the motor and transplant it into my PM 100.

I'll eventually need a new motor; my intent is to one day (later than sooner now!) convert the Belsaw into a drum sander. Yeah, it's only 12" wide, but 90% of what I build is small boxes.

My worry now is getting the set screws in the pulley out so I can remove it; it's a smidge too long to fit into my 100's base, and they're rusted in place.

[Stwood_]

Ouf. Heat (propane torch?) cool with penetrating fluid. Twice, 3 times maybe. Be gentle with allen wrench. Take your time.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Yup.

Gotta get some fuel for my torch.

[BloomingtonMike]

Use kroil on the set screw.

Those switches, if the latching kind and not momentary, are available on Amazon much cheaper than $90. I replaced one on a porter cable rebranded castle benchtop pocket hole machine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2KD4AI/ref...qBbXXYZ5TP

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