Posts: 186
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2003
I have been looking at blades for a bandsaw I am planning to purchase (Rikon 14") and am confused by some of the specs in the Timberwolf blade guide ( http://timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php#list). The 3/16" 10 TPI Raker tooth blade indicates it will handle hardwoods up to 2-1/2" thick and softwoods up to 1-1/2". When I look at the 1/4" 10 TPI Raker tooth blade (same only 1/16th wider), it indicates only 3/4" for hardwoods and 1/2" for softwoods. I don't understand the difference between these 2 blades, the difference between hardwood and softwood (how readily the gullets will clog?), and how one determines the maximum thickness that can be cut with a particular blade. I understand the "3 teeth in the material" guide for the minimum thickness and smooth cuts, but what about the maximum thickness? Is there a rule of thumb?
Thanks,
Steve
Steve
Shortcut, n.: Longest distance between two points.
Posts: 10,777
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Front seat on the Struggle Bus
Don't try to figure it out ....call them, tell them what you want to do.
They will spec the best blade for you.
Ed
Posts: 12,888
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(07-18-2018, 06:21 PM)Steve_S Wrote: I have been looking at blades for a bandsaw I am planning to purchase (Rikon 14") and am confused by some of the specs in the Timberwolf blade guide (http://timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php#list). The 3/16" 10 TPI Raker tooth blade indicates it will handle hardwoods up to 2-1/2" thick and softwoods up to 1-1/2". When I look at the 1/4" 10 TPI Raker tooth blade (same only 1/16th wider), it indicates only 3/4" for hardwoods and 1/2" for softwoods. I don't understand the difference between these 2 blades, the difference between hardwood and softwood (how readily the gullets will clog?), and how one determines the maximum thickness that can be cut with a particular blade. I understand the "3 teeth in the material" guide for the minimum thickness and smooth cuts, but what about the maximum thickness? Is there a rule of thumb?
Thanks,
Steve
I don't think there is a maximum thickness for a blade; it's more related to how fast you want to cut, or slow you are willing to tolerate. The more teeth on the blade the slower it will cut because it can't clear the sawdust as well as a blade with fewer teeth. But it will still cut unless you push it too hard and the gullets get packed with sawdust. So I always use the widest blade my saw can adequately tension with the fewest teeth possible for whatever radius work I want to do. For straight cuts that means a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade on my 14" Delta. For curved work it's usually a 1/4" x 6 tpi blade. I've never had much success with more teeth than that. FWIW, I have sliced 8" wide veneer with that 1/4" x 6 tpi blade - very slowly.
John
Posts: 3,545
Threads: 1
Joined: May 2004
Location: Wisconsin
I suspect the difference is just that on a narrow blade you must have fine teeth. When you go to the wider blade, one with fewer teeth becomes available, and that is a better choice for cutting thicker stock. The point being that they are not telling you that you can't use the blade outside of the recommended range, just that there is a better choice for that.
My own preference is to use the coarsest blade that gives a smooth enough cut. I use a 1/2" 3TPI blade for straight rips, and a 1/4" 6 TPI blade for most curves too fine for the 1/2" blade. My narrower blades don't get much use.
Posts: 186
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2003
(07-19-2018, 09:30 AM)jteneyck Wrote: I don't think there is a maximum thickness for a blade; it's more related to how fast you want to cut, or slow you are willing to tolerate. The more teeth on the blade the slower it will cut because it can't clear the sawdust as well as a blade with fewer teeth. But it will still cut unless you push it too hard and the gullets get packed with sawdust. So I always use the widest blade my saw can adequately tension with the fewest teeth possible for whatever radius work I want to do. For straight cuts that means a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade on my 14" Delta. For curved work it's usually a 1/4" x 6 tpi blade. I've never had much success with more teeth than that. FWIW, I have sliced 8" wide veneer with that 1/4" x 6 tpi blade - very slowly.
John
John-
Thanks for the feedback. That corresponds to my thinking - more teeth, smaller gullet give a slower cut rate. It just seems odd that the timberwolf table has such a big difference between the 3/16 and 1/4" blades, and thicker max for the 3/16 with perhaps slightly smaller gullets. I have an email in to them asked the same questions, but have not heard back from them. Maybe best to ignore those numbers in their table......
Thanks,
Steve
Steve
Shortcut, n.: Longest distance between two points.
Posts: 12,888
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(07-19-2018, 10:50 AM)Steve_S Wrote: John-
Thanks for the feedback. That corresponds to my thinking - more teeth, smaller gullet give a slower cut rate. It just seems odd that the timberwolf table has such a big difference between the 3/16 and 1/4" blades, and thicker max for the 3/16 with perhaps slightly smaller gullets. I have an email in to them asked the same questions, but have not heard back from them. Maybe best to ignore those numbers in their table......
Thanks,
Steve
I'll be interested, as I'm sure others are, in what Timberwolf has to say.
John
Posts: 21,259
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
(07-18-2018, 06:21 PM)Steve_S Wrote: I have been looking at blades for a bandsaw I am planning to purchase (Rikon 14") and am confused by some of the specs in the Timberwolf blade guide (http://timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php#list). The 3/16" 10 TPI Raker tooth blade indicates it will handle hardwoods up to 2-1/2" thick and softwoods up to 1-1/2". When I look at the 1/4" 10 TPI Raker tooth blade (same only 1/16th wider), it indicates only 3/4" for hardwoods and 1/2" for softwoods. I don't understand the difference between these 2 blades, the difference between hardwood and softwood (how readily the gullets will clog?), and how one determines the maximum thickness that can be cut with a particular blade. I understand the "3 teeth in the material" guide for the minimum thickness and smooth cuts, but what about the maximum thickness? Is there a rule of thumb?
Thanks,
Steve
Steve
It is the same as Scroll saw blades the thinner they go the thinner the wood due to breakage and stress on the blade, but the smaller the blade the smaller the circles can be made. Also the thicker the blade the more tension is placed on the blade with thicker the wood and it like the #9 scroll saw blade can do up to 1.5" and for straighter cuts to.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 186
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2003
John, et. al. -
I emailed Timberwolf the end of June and again last week - no response at all to either query. Either they don't 'do' email or don't care. Anyone care to comment on quality of their blades? I have decided to ignore their listings of maximum thicknesses - their numbers are too inconsistent and it doesn't apper to be a real spec.
Thanks,
Steve
Steve
Shortcut, n.: Longest distance between two points.
Posts: 10,777
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Front seat on the Struggle Bus
Posts: 12,888
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(07-25-2018, 08:26 PM)Steve_S Wrote: John, et. al. -
I emailed Timberwolf the end of June and again last week - no response at all to either query. Either they don't 'do' email or don't care. Anyone care to comment on quality of their blades? I have decided to ignore their listings of maximum thicknesses - their numbers are too inconsistent and it doesn't apper to be a real spec.
Thanks,
Steve
I was not impressed. Both blades I tried from them broke prematurely, and not at the weld. I set them exactly as T'wolf recommended on my 14" Delta, which couldn't over tension a 1/2" blade if it wanted to.
John
|
