Removing rust from old plane

[imapseudonym]

Three ways to remove rust.  The most effective is chelation (Evapo-Rust).   It's also the most expensive.

Mechanical Abrasion:
WD-40 and a Scotchbrite pad or sandpaper
Wire brush (powered or hand-held)
Razor blade (flat surfaces)

Acid Etching:
Removes rust by attacking the layer of unrusted metal underneath the rust.  Rust flakes off.
Acetic Acid (Vinegar)
Citric Acid (Pretty much the same as Acetic - food preservatives)
Phosphoric Acid (Sodas, TSP - Tri-sodium-phosphate)
Hydrochloric Acid (Rustoleum)
Oxalic Acid

Chelation:
Removes rust by chemical reaction pulling the rust into a liquid solution of other chemicals - unrusted metal is intact.
Evaporust

You left out Electrolysis - Very inexpensive, and very slow. Some people worry about a risk of embrittling the steel if used for blades.

[Admiral]

Just to add to this, many of you may have seen the planes I offer for sale in the S&S. I do not use any chemicals, or acids. A little elbow grease and abrasives go a long, long way.

[DaveParkis]

I agree. I don't sell here much anymore (although I should) and I find that the brown Scotchbrites and some wd-40 works really well.

[mvflaim]

Is there some inexpensive solution I can buy or make to remove the rust from an old hand plane? I have just one that needs work, and I don't want to spend a lot.

Citric acid... way cheaper than Evaporust. I add a cup of citric acid to about a gallon of warm water and soak the tool in it for about a half an hour. Sometimes you can find citric acid at the grocery store.

Mike

[Timberwolf]

Citric acid... way cheaper than Evaporust. I add a cup of citric acid to about a gallon of warm water and soak the tool in it for about a half an hour. Sometimes you can find citric acid at the grocery store.

Mike

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Ebay is a good source for Citric acid...I buy it in 10lb bags. use two TBS to a spray bottle of water...removes hard water stains like magic in shower and around sinks...and say goodbye to water spots if used in dishwasher. I would not be without it.

[Blacky's Boy]

Just a point to make here. WD-40 is really not meant for lubrication and rust prevention. It's more of a gunk cutter and cleaner. It not much more than mineral spirits and a touch of lubricant. "Water Dispersal (Dispersment? Displacement?) No 40 and all that. It IS great at removing the gunk from an Evaporust bath. But you can do the same thing with Mineral Spirits.

And Citric Acid is great for removing rust. BUT it will etch a surface if it's left in too long unchecked. How do I know this? Well, I had an old No 6 that looks like it had a bad case of teenage acne.

After rust removal with evaporust or even a scoth brite I ALWAYS give whatever got cleaned a coat of light oil or wax. Otherwise it'll flash rust faster than heck.

[WoodTinker]

Just a point to make here. WD-40 is really not meant for lubrication and rust prevention. It's more of a gunk cutter and cleaner.  It not much more than mineral spirits and a touch of lubricant. "Water Dispersal (Dispersment? Displacement?) No 40 and all that. It IS great at removing the gunk from an Evaporust bath. But you can do the same thing with Mineral Spirits.

And Citric Acid is great for removing rust. BUT it will etch a surface if it's left in too long unchecked. How do I know this? Well, I had an old No 6 that looks like it had a bad case of teenage acne.

After rust removal with evaporust or even a scoth brite I ALWAYS give whatever got cleaned a coat of light oil or wax. Otherwise it'll flash rust faster than heck.

With only lite-rust, you can use Autosol to polish the metal. I normally start with a tooth brush and move on to paper towels. Polished metal is less likely to rust as fast again, but you would want to add a rust preventative after.

[Timberwolf]

With only lite-rust, you can use Autosol to polish the metal. I normally start with a tooth brush and move on to paper towels. Polished metal is less likely to rust as fast again, but you would want to add a rust preventative after.

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LIL.......Get too rambunctious with a stiff wire wheel on a bench grinder and you will produce a "rust-free" surface that looks like orange peel.. you won't like it but you will have to live with it.

[Admiral]

Also last in line; I've honestly never felt the need for, nor have used, any chemical/acid/chelating rust removers for any of the planes I've ever picked up; perhaps I'm picky in what I buy, but I've bought some rust buckets in my time. If you can't remove the rust by using a single edge razor blade, perhaps some fine brass wire wheel action, or a deburring wheel, its likely not worth fixing up. Plus, a little light pitting is no problem, and you won't get that out with chemicals either. I guess I'm in the minority.

[bandit571]

Same here....after one try, years ago, at soaking a rusty plane.....gave up, and went with wire wheels.   Mainly the "cup" brushes in the drillpress.   Maybe a LIGHT sanding on the sides.  Soles get a ride on a worn belt on the beltsander...to remove all them black sharpie lines.

Cheap paint brush, filled with a bit of 3in1 oil, to scrub things clean.   Even adds a bit of shine.   Then spend the rest of the 2 hours total on sharpening...