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(10-02-2018, 11:58 PM)mike4244 Wrote: John, remember the top is 5'-0" long. You would be nuts to try to bevel the short edges with the top against a fence sticking 5'-0" above the saw table.
mike
Actually, it's not nuts if you have a tall fence, feather borads, and outfeed table. I've done 4' tall pieces w/o issue. Of course, one should only do what they are comfortable with. Since I don't have 5' of clearance above my TS I would probably do this one with a hand plane, or power hand plane if I owned one.
John
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I have a huge tablesaw sled so I mounted a jig on that that holds the long tabletops on end to put the shallow angle bevels. Having 15' ceilings near my tablesaw helps.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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Clamp a piece of stock to the edge of the table before making the router cut. It will prevent the end grain from tearing out.
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(10-03-2018, 02:30 PM)Splinter Puller Wrote: I have a huge tablesaw sled so I mounted a jig on that that holds the long tabletops on end to put the shallow angle bevels. Having 15' ceilings near my tablesaw helps.
SAWEEET!
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
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Begin with the end grain. I would first climb cut the far end with a hand held router, to avoid spelching. Do this in three passes rather than one. Do one climb cut, then rout through from the other end, another, and so on.
Then you are left with the long grain sides. That is straight forward. Still, I would do it in a couple of shallower passes to avoid bogging down and burning.
Regards from Perth
Derek
