Shed Project: Doors

[jteneyck]

Here's a link to the last installment:  Storage Racks

Time to wrap up my shed build.  After a month traveling I got back to building the doors.  I used some 6/4 ash that I had even though ash is not a great choice for exterior use.  

The doors are 3' wide by 7' tall.  After dimensioning the door parts I cut 5/8" x 3" deep mortises at all the joints for loose tenons, 2, 2-1/2" wide ones in the 8" bottom rail, 3" wide in the 5" mid and top rail.  I cut 1/2" x 2" deep ones for the center muntins.  



It took about 150 gms of T-88 epoxy and 45 minutes to glue up each door.  You would never have enough time to get it glued up with Titebond.  



On one set of doors I pegged the joints in the top and bottom rails, as an experiment.  



I'm using 1/2" MDO for the door panels.  To hold them in the frame I made this molding for the outside.



They are glued and pin nailed around each opening.  I filled the defects in the door with external wood filler, then primed and painted them.  I used Sherwin Williams latex external primer.



The topcoat is two coats of Sherwin Williams Resilience.  I used a brush to apply both the primer and paint.  

 

If you've been following along you might note that my shop is a lot more open now.  Most of the wood has been moved to the shed.  That allowed me to move my Euro bench to a much better location, and I can actually work on two things at once now.  l moved my seldom used wood lathe to where the drier used to be in the far corner.  I also reconfigured the last of the rolling wood carts I used before building the shed to hold shorts.  It now sits where the lathe was before.  You can see it here along with lots of scraps that I purged but hadn't yet cut up for the wood stove.  




My good friend came and helped me carry the doors out my shop and mount them to the shed.  To do that I screwed a ledger to the joist to set the doors on while we installed the hinges.  I used typical shed door type hinges.  I couldn't find the heavier ones I wanted so I bought these.  Latter I found the heavier ones, but since I already had these I used them.  



After the doors were hung I added the panels and lites.  The panels are glued in with a bead of caulk and temporarily secured with a few nails on the inside until I make moldings.  The lites are held in with screws.  





To secure the doors in place I added a cane bolt to the left door.   The door latch is shown in the photo above.  



I routed a rabbet in the floor to provide clearance for a piece of vinyl rake trim to finish off under the door.  




I'm very pleased with how the shed came out.  It allowed me to clear the wood out of my shop that was making life down there impossible and to rearrange my shop slightly to give me two usable benches with plenty of walk around space.  And I've made a promise to myself to only keep what will fit on my remaining wood racks and carts.    

The shed has plenty more space for additional wood.  Good thing, because I have some pretty large ash logs to mill, the subject of another story.  

Thanks for following along my shed building journey.  This was the first and likely only building I will ever build.  I have to say, there is something quite satisfying in putting up a tiny house on what was once a piece of bare ground.  I can understand the attraction of home building.  For the bean counters out there, my off the top of my head budget was $5K.  I haven't honed it to the last few dollars yet, but I actually spent a little under $5800.  

John

[Gary G™]

Nice finale John.
One note; you wrote: “It took about 150 gms of T-88 epoxy and 45 minutes to glue up each door. You would never have enough time to get it glued up with Titebond.”

I built a crib with 6 M&T flat spindles on the short sides and about 16 on the long side.
I used Titebond II glue. There’s enough time with a modified scheme.
My method in these cases is to glue one side and dry-fit the other side. When the glue sets, disassemble the dry side and glue it.
For a door like yours, you could glue the doorknob side and dry-fit the hinge side; then, disassemble and glue the hinge side.

[Stwood_]

Doors look very nice John.
Question on building them. Why do you run your stiles so long, then have to cut them off.
I always made my stiles the length of the door dimension.

[jteneyck]

Nice finale John.
One note; you wrote: “It took about 150 gms of T-88 epoxy and 45 minutes to glue up each door.  You would never have enough time to get it glued up with Titebond.”

I built a crib with 6 M&T flat spindles on the short sides and about 16 on the long side.
I used Titebond II glue. There’s enough time with a modified scheme.
My method in these cases is to glue one side and dry-fit the other side. When the glue sets, disassemble the dry side and glue it.
For a door like yours, you could glue the doorknob side and dry-fit the hinge side; then, disassemble and glue the hinge side.

Gary, with these doors you have to glue the center muntins to the rails before you can add the stiles.  I think you'd have to do it in 3 steps if you wanted to use TB II, the center section, then one stile, then the other.  That's a lot of extra work and TB II isn't as good for this application as T-88 epoxy.  

John

[Admiral]

very nice John.I like the color too.

[jteneyck]

Doors look very nice John.
Question on building them. Why do you run your stiles so long, then have to cut them off.
I always made my stiles the length of the door dimension.

These were extra long, to be sure, but I always leave them long and cut them off later.  Those "horns" make it easy to knock the frame apart when you are fitting the joints.  This can be really important when you make a molded cope/stick frame as you can't whack the stiles with a mallet to disassemble it w/o risk of damaging those molded edges where the panels will go.  With the horns you have something to whack w/o worry of doing any damage.  


If you make haunched integral tenons you should definitely leave the stiles long so as not to risk blowing out the end of the stile or, even worse, cracking the stile if the tenon is just a bit too snug.  Of course, if you fit the tenons carefully this shouldn't happen, but sometimes the woodworking gods conspire against you.  

I cut the stiles off with my portable circular saw along a straight edge, then sanded.  Plenty good enough for these doors.  When I can't take any chances I use a router.  

John

[stav]

It looks great.  Very nice work.

[EricU]

I'm just finishing up my shed.  Not posting pictures now, your's makes it look pathetic in comparison

[Snipe Hunter]

John, that's some shed.

[Stwood_]

These were extra long, to be sure, but I always leave them long and cut them off later.  Those "horns" make it easy to knock the frame apart when you are fitting the joints.  This can be really important when you make a molded cope/stick frame as you can't whack the stiles with a mallet to disassemble it w/o risk of damaging those molded edges where the panels will go.  With the horns you have something to whack w/o worry of doing any damage.  


If you make haunched integral tenons you should definitely leave the stiles long so as not to risk blowing out the end of the stile or, even worse, cracking the stile if the tenon is just a bit too snug.  Of course, if you fit the tenons carefully this shouldn't happen, but sometimes the woodworking gods conspire against you.  

I cut the stiles off with my portable circular saw along a straight edge, then sanded.  Plenty good enough for these doors.  When I can't take any chances I use a router.  

John

I think you and Joe are the only 2 I've ever seen do that. I never did as it was just another extra step.


I really like the red on those doors. Makes the shed look good.