Breadboard Ends

[Elijah A.]

I've had some time off work so there has been about an hour everyday when the kids are napping that I can still go down and make some shavings


it is red oak. I want to do the breadboard ends for stability but I also want to do them for aesthetics. Thank you all for your suggestions!

[Hank Knight]

If you don't get a nice, crisp shoulder joint, go back and undercut the tenon shoulder just a hair (technical term there - no more than a couple of degrees). Then the shoulder should meet perfectly.

[Derek Cohen]

Hey, I am building a table and I want to do breadboard ends by hand. I am planning to use a cross cut back saw to establish the edge and chisel out the waste cleaning up with a router plane. I do not own a shoulder plane or any type of rabbeting plane. Is it possible to clean up the 90 degree angle without a shoulder plane? I don't mind buying a tool but I'm open to ideas on how to clean up the 90 without owning a shoulder plane. Thx!
Eli

Hi Eli

You can also clean up the shoulder with a cutting gauge (such as a wheel gauge). This is a stopped rebate, with waste sawn on both sides ...







Regards from Perth

Derek

[hbmcc]

I've had some time off work so there has been about an hour everyday when the kids are napping that I can still go down and make some shavings


it is red oak. I want to do the breadboard ends for stability but I also want to do them for aesthetics. Thank you all for your suggestions!

Hah!! I was pretty busy the first year, or so, when the kid showed up. I think that was my most productive as a beaver. I didn't waste time playing designer. 

I don't work with oak--it's not local--but, yah, you need breadboards.

[Robert Hazelwood]

A long paring block, set accurately to gauge lines, would be the way to go if you don't have a rabbet or shoulder plane. If you have more than ~1/32" of material to remove, do it in stages. Use a skewing motion with the chisel.

Paring blocks are tedious but very effective.

[spowers]

A long paring block, set accurately to gauge lines, would be the way to go if you don't have a rabbet or shoulder plane.  If you have more than ~1/32" of material to remove, do it in stages.  Use a skewing motion with the chisel.

Paring blocks are tedious but very effective.

A shoulder plane is a pretty useful tool for a variety of tasks, not just shoulders.  Whether used or new, you might want to invest in one.

[Skip J.]

A long paring block, set accurately to gauge lines, would be the way to go if you don't have a rabbet or shoulder plane.  If you have more than ~1/32" of material to remove, do it in stages.  Use a skewing motion with the chisel.

Paring blocks are tedious but very effective.

Hello Robert;

Welcome to the forum!!!!!!!

[rwe2156]

A dado clean up bit or short pattern bit with a straight guide will do a good jot of cleaning up the shoulders.

[bandit571]

Find a Stanley #78...retract the nicker....it will do the entire job.    IF you go across the grain, rotate the nicker down....it will cut a fine, 90 degree rebate....as long as you hold the plane correctly.  

I do have a wood bodied, Auburn Tool Co. No. 181....skewed rebate plane.   But mainly, I just use either 78...or the Stanley 45.....surprised Derek isn't trying to sell the "latest, and greatest LV Combo plane"   

78s are easy enough to find...and use..

   
Had to run this around the backside of a door's raised panel...

   
YMMV