Back to doweling jigs

[jteneyck]

You know I was thinking about this some more.

I'm worried that if you put that many dowels that deep into a door, you might need some crazy hydraulic-type clamping at your disposal to get the joints to close.

Phil, I think you might be correct if you used TB II or III glue, or Plastic Resin Glue, but I use epoxy for exterior doors and it has a 45+ minute open time and is self lubricating.  Closing the joints has been stress free with only modest clamping force since I switched to epoxy.  FWIW, several Euro door makers use multiple dowels in their exterior doors, similar to what your jig does, but more like 3/8".  I don't know what glue they use but doubt it's epoxy.  
FWIW, TB type glues are a poor choice for exterior doors if they are exposed to direct sunshine.  TB III, in particular, looses much of it's strength at 150F.  I know that sounds really high, but some colleagues have measured temperatures around 200F on the surface of dark colored doors.  Of the glues available to me, I personally think Plastic Resin Glue has the best combination of properties for exterior doors but the short open time has prevented me from using it.  So I now use epoxy even though it, too, loses strength at high temperature.  
John

[Phil Thien]

Phil, I think you might be correct if you used TB II or III glue, or Plastic Resin Glue, but I use epoxy for exterior doors and it has a 45+ minute open time and is self lubricating.  Closing the joints has been stress free with only modest clamping force since I switched to epoxy.  FWIW, several Euro door makers use multiple dowels in their exterior doors, similar to what your jig does, but more like 3/8".  I don't know what glue they use but doubt it's epoxy.  
FWIW, TB type glues are a poor choice for exterior doors if they are exposed to direct sunshine.  TB III, in particular, looses much of it's strength at 150F.  I know that sounds really high, but some colleagues have measured temperatures around 200F on the surface of dark colored doors.  Of the glues available to me, I personally think Plastic Resin Glue has the best combination of properties for exterior doors but the short open time has prevented me from using it.  So I now use epoxy even though it, too, loses strength at high temperature.  
John

Got it, once I get a batch of the 1/4" units made I'll draw something with 3/8" dowels for exterior doors and you can take a look.

[Phil Thien]

Alright I've finalized this design.

I've cut enough for the people that have been (patiently) waiting for some time, and a few (I think 3?) extras.

If anyone is interested in one of the extras, PM me.  I'm going to charge $45 to newbies BECAUSE the drill bushing alone is +$10 to me, and all the extra holes takes quite some CNC time, too.

This is a pretty clever (if I do say so myself) approach to a single dowel size working for nearly any joint in wood 1/2" thick up to 1-1/2" thick. And instead of keeping multiple diameters and lengths of dowels around, you can standardize on a single length of 1/4" dowel, never have to change the drill bit's depth collar, etc.

[Scouter]

That might work, although if there is anything that would allow me to not have to wait for something to dry, I think I might prefer that.

I was thinking just a lower-grit self-adhesive sandpaper, or even something like the friction tape from Lee Valley:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.as...53293&ap=1

I agree with the rubber coating, I've used it on a lot of jigs. I may be mistaken, but I think he was talking about applying it to the guide block, so it would be a one-time application. Drying time is about an hour, but it would only need to be done once, so waiting isn't a problem. You can speed it up (I've done it) with a hair dryer or heat gun, takes a couple of minutes.

Are you going to post the plans when you're done?

What is the base material, plexiglass?

[Phil Thien]

I ran into a little problem with my first batch of these.  I was seeing small stress fractures in the template when I'd crank the screws.

I got some PETG and made a few changes to the template layout and they're working perfectly.

PETG tougher than the acrylic, I've actually formed thinner PETG with a metal brake, it bends and doesn't snap.

I've setup a new page with details here:

http://www.jpthien.com/djv2.htm

You can also place orders using the PayPal link there.

The price is higher, the drill bushings along cost me in excess of $10 each, and shipping is included and will require more postage this time around.

[museumguy]

I've read your post in it's entirety a couple of times. I've always hated dowels because the jigs that I used never worked good enough. I may have to rethink my position and purchase your jig.

thanks,