I've been using my TS-LS for about a year now and love it. I use a Shark Guard splitter regularly, and often use a Rockler feather board when ripping.
I'm looking for ideas for attachments that use the 1/4-20 slots on the face and top that might make things easier that I haven't thought of. I know about using an auxiliary fence of MDF for burying a dado stack in.
I have several accessories I use on the TS-LS fence system that really aren't dependent on the Incra system. The t-slot allows easier connections in some cases but most generic fence work-arounds and attachments will work fine. In other words, google tablesaw fence attachments and most should function fine with a mod or two even if they were designed for another fence system like the Unifence, Biesemeyer, etc.
My TS-LS fence is mounted on Unisaw but I also use it with the BenchDog cast iron router table extension wing. I use fence attachments more for the router table type tasks than for the tablesaw tasks.
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You might consider an L-fence with vertical slots in it so you can adjust it's height. 1/4 in. bolts with their heads in the t-slots on the fence and Bristol levers or knobs to lock it down.
A small block of wood about 4" long x as high as the fence x exactly 1" thick. Counterbore 2 -1/4"-20 bolts to mount to the fence. Use it to set the length of cut-offs so the drop doesn't get trapped between the blade and fence and become a projectile. Be sure to add 1" to the length of the cut when setting the fence.
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(11-12-2018, 05:18 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I've been using my TS-LS for about a year now and love it. I use a Shark Guard splitter regularly, and often use a Rockler feather board when ripping.
I'm looking for ideas for attachments that use the 1/4-20 slots on the face and top that might make things easier that I haven't thought of. I know about using an auxiliary fence of MDF for burying a dado stack in.
Thoughts?
I made a push block that rides in the top of the fence. I have machine screws that keep it from lifting. It could be made without that feature.
It gets close to the fence. I like using the shark guard as much as possible. It holds the workpiece down as well as pusheds it through. The heel is replaceable, it will get cut.
I cut a lot of thin strips that are narrower than my Grripper, so I have been trying to figure out a safe way to push the stick. That looks great! I'll build one soon.
Dave--
What do you mean by L-fence? I can't quite picture it.
What do you mean by L-fence? I can't quite picture it.
It's an auxiliary fence that sits up off the table. You can attach a pattern to your work for off-angle cuts. The pattern rides against the L-fence. Maybe for something like the tapered legs on the drop leaf table.
Bob VanDyke shows the same idea for cutting the tapered sides on a Limbert style book rack like this.
The fence looks something like this one I scavenged from the web. You can control the offset from the pattern by where the edge of the fence is located relative to the blade.
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