Posts: 24,334
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
Got a CL deal on several frames that will make great shop tables. They are made from 1-1/2" angle and rectangular tubing (both thin wall) so they're not heavy duty but should be great for other duties. They are 43" square with several cross-braces so I've got several options for installation. For $10 each I couldn't pass them up.
I'm planning on using some 4/4 Maple I picked up in a bulk deal. It's not furniture grade but is solid.
My question is what's the best way to join the boards or should I just screw them from below?
One thought is to joint/edge glue them and just use silicone to hold them to the frame.
Tongue and groove? Pocket holes?
How much do I need to worry about expansion/contraction?
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom" --Kris Kristofferson
Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
Posts: 12,064
Threads: 1,611
Joined: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Kansas
I once made a landing for a stairway using 5/4 oak(planed yo 1&1/8" thick). I used five pieces that were 50" long and 10' wide. I used biscuits(#20) to join, more for alignment than any holding power. I did need to watch the biscuit placing, since I needed to cut two slices off for steps.
Glued and applied pipe clamps and let set 24 hours. Have not heard of any problems, the job was over 12 years ago.
Posts: 12,617
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
The only movement issue would be if you really tighten the wood to the metal frame without some allowance. So I would joint/edge glue the top together, then put oversize holes (slightly elongated) in the metal frame and screw the top down through those holes. They screws should slide nicely across the metal surface as the wood moves.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 24,145
Threads: 2
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Missouri
Joint, rip, shiplap, then attach with screws underneath.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
Posts: 1,325
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Bowie, MD
(12-08-2018, 06:38 PM)Wild Turkey Wrote: Got a CL deal on several frames that will make great shop tables. They are made from 1-1/2" angle and rectangular tubing (both thin wall) so they're not heavy duty but should be great for other duties. They are 43" square with several cross-braces so I've got several options for installation. For $10 each I couldn't pass them up.
I'm planning on using some 4/4 Maple I picked up in a bulk deal. It's not furniture grade but is solid.
My question is what's the best way to join the boards or should I just screw them from below?
One thought is to joint/edge glue them and just use silicone to hold them to the frame.
Tongue and groove? Pocket holes?
How much do I need to worry about expansion/contraction?
USE DOWELS
George
if it ain't broke, you're not tryin'
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Red Green
Posts: 1,407
Threads: 2
Joined: Jun 2003
(12-09-2018, 07:00 AM)fredhargis Wrote: The only movement issue would be if you really tighten the wood to the metal frame without some allowance. So I would joint/edge glue the top together, then put oversize holes (slightly elongated) in the metal frame and screw the top down through those holes. They screws should slide nicely across the metal surface as the wood moves.
This ^^
