Window/door trim molding challenge
#21
(01-27-2019, 09:20 AM)museumguy Wrote: Ok, here's a wild thought. Has he checked any neighboring houses to see if they have the same profile? Maybe someone has the same trim, maybe they are doing a remodel as well.

Also, what about inside of closets. Are they trimmed out with the same molding? Could he take the trim from the inside where it wouldn't be noticed.

Just a thought.

 If the other stock moldings are close I would bet nobody would notice if the old and new did not connect directly together.   Even today's stock moldings do not match exactly from different mills, they look the same until you join a miter with new and old. Other option buy a stock molding and modify it if possible.
 Years ago I had a molding head for a radial arm saw that you could swap cutters and change their angle to make a very close match but it will take many passes.  Roly
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#22
A set of knives for my Williams & Hussey molder costs around $150.  I could run as much or as little as you need for the cost of the knives, wood, and shipping; no charge for doing it.  

If you pursue doing it by hand, I suggest you remove the bulk of the material with your table saw.  Then make a scratch stick to bring it to it's final profile.

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John
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#23
I eyeballed my stock of molding knives, and also looked on Woodmasters website listing of stock cutters.
I found nothing close to that base design.
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#24
One router bit on the router table, a table saw, a shoulder plane and some sanding and this is what I came up with for a test piece.  I think I can make this molding but the homeowner is going to do the final sanding.  I'm going to have a scraper made by my sheet metal guy to fine tune the molding and save some sanding I think.

   
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#25
(01-28-2019, 04:35 PM)Duane N Wrote: One router bit on the router table, a table saw, a shoulder plane and some sanding and this is what I came up with for a test piece.  I think I can make this molding but the homeowner is going to do the final sanding.  I'm going to have a scraper made by my sheet metal guy to fine tune the molding and save some sanding I think.

Nicely done Duane...did you use a horizontal router table for that? Seems like it would be a good option
https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite...table.html
Brian
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#26
That's lookin like a very fine job professionally done.
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#27
Looks like you're practically dialed in.

If you've a mind for it, a scratch stock will get you 95% of the way there and 40' wouldn't take you more than an hour or two. The sanding would take some care, but if it's the owner who does that, then no skin off your nose
Smile

You can still use the TS and router bits to knock off most of the material and save you more time too.

Probably 20-30 minutes to file the card scraper (or other scratch stock material) and you're off to the races.

Michael
Every day find time to appreciate life. It is far too short and 'things' happen. RIP Willem
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#28
I think it looks good. a trick that might help the sanding go easy is to make a sanding block of the original profile with Bondo. I wouldn't worry too much about the thickest face, just the curve that meets it, and I would also make it so it can ride against the thin edge. (To help w/ a visual; picture a sanding block above the sample in your photo. Slide it to the right 3/4" and drop that side about 1/2".) I would go through the grits but don't have paper on that right edge 'til the last few.

To make the sanding block, first put wax or oil on your sample so it won't stick. Put a gob of Bondo (with hardener) on the sample and force it onto the profile with a properly sized block of wood. When it hardens it should stick to the block. Trim the overhanging Bondo as necessary. Sometime I have to "soften" the paper by rubbing the back over a sharp corner, but your profile doesn't look too difficult to sand.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#29
(01-28-2019, 04:49 PM)brianwelch Wrote: Nicely done Duane...did you use a horizontal router table for that? Seems like it would be a good option
https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite...table.html
Brian

No, just a standard home made table with a fence.  It takes some setting up but I had some small test pieces to run through it to dial it in then to the table saw.  Back to the router then the table saw again.
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#30
(01-28-2019, 05:05 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: That's lookin like a very fine job professionally done.

Thanks...not perfect but as long as the ends are close no one will notice the middle not being exact.  Paint hides a lot as well I hope,
Smile
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