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Ditto on not running flooring under cabs.
MY cabs have a seperate base I leveled and screwed down, cut from 2x6's so I could get a 4" height.
I build all my cabs as long as I can. I've built 8' before. My current cabs, I have a 5'er in there along with a 2'er and a 36" corner cab
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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I trust both of your opinions but I have to ask why...I'm on the fence but leaning towards not running it under the cabinets after reading your replies. More curiosity not doubting.
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Ok. Tile, linoleum, I would put down before cabs. But anything wood, no.
If your floor happens to flood with wood floors, the real stuff or manmade, if it buckles it needs to be replaced.
Tile, linoleum, not so much.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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I'm not them but I'll chime in with the two reasons I know of first if you ever have to replace the floor having the cabinets on top can create an issue and while some people think they'll never have to replace the floor things happen floods foundation damage who knows what
The second thing is that when you put the base down any unevenness in the floor that you have to level for will not be visible when you lay the floor that butts up against the the base down by the toe kick
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Thank you both and very valid points so I will do the base and run the flooring up and around it.
Thanks again.
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Something else to consider I like to add the thickness of the floor to the base height. That way your toe kick height and the top hide your cabinets is based off the height of the floor
Make sense?
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(02-12-2019, 07:06 PM)Wipedout Wrote: Something else to consider I like to add the thickness of the floor to the base height. That way your toe kick height and the top hide your cabinets is based off the height of the floor
Make sense?
Yes...makes sense. I was going to add the thickness of the floor to the base now that I doing the base before the flooring.
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Island was a joke. I did hire a local person who made custom cabinets to design the layout. It was money well spent. We had kicked ideas around for at least a year including a full size "mock up" in the garage. Custom cabinet maker had better ideas, and he pointed out things that could be a problem like drawers in two sides of a corner. He also sold me prefinished plywood at a good price.
I also tried to make both upper and lower cabinets in "chunks" when possible. I showed them to a fellow woodworker once and he pointed that right out.
I also tried to make drawer fronts out of a single board so when you look at the drawers the grain flowed from one cabinet to the next. Not a big deal, but not something you will purchase much.
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(02-12-2019, 05:55 PM)Duane N Wrote: I trust both of your opinions but I have to ask why...I'm on the fence but leaning towards not running it under the cabinets after reading your replies. More curiosity not doubting.
(02-12-2019, 06:14 PM)Wipedout Wrote: I'm not them but I'll chime in with the two reasons I know of first if you ever have to replace the floor having the cabinets on top can create an issue and while some people think they'll never have to replace the floor things happen floods foundation damage who knows what
The second thing is that when you put the base down any unevenness in the floor that you have to level for will not be visible when you lay the floor that butts up against the the base down by the toe kick
That would be reason #2. Crane makes a device called a toe-kick saw. It is a blessing for people that have flooring extending under their cabinets, but every time I've used one I'd have preferred they would have run the floor TO the cabinets.
So the way this is done by better installers to whom I've spoken (and hired) is they ask you the thickness of your finished floor above the sub-floor. They will then shim the cabinets that much. So if you're putting down 3/4" T&G over your sub, they'll tack 3/4" onto the bottoms of your cabinets and then hand-over the kitchen ready for the flooring install. You install the floor, and then apply a finished toe-kick height molding (about 3/8" thick) to cover any small gaps.
Reason #1 is that with the kitchen cabinets installed, you can arrange joints/grout lines for an appearance that compliments the kitchen and avoids weirdness like grout lines or thin slices that align with the edge of cabinets.
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I built the bases for the cabinets and sat them in place to see if everything fits. I'll have to fine tune everything so the appliances fit in their respective areas and I have enough room to walk around in the kitchen especially the 30" door opening into the main part of my home. I'm hoping by this weekend to have the bases level and anchored so I can start on the flooring.
