Contractor skipped- Looking on the bright side... wiring my shop...

[Philip1231]

I put a primary and secondary service panel in my shop. The primary controls the lights, an single utility outlet circuit, and supplies the secondary via a 50 amp feeder. The secondary panel has all the circuits for all the power tool, and a pilot/status light (the blue led light above the panels.  When the light is on: the tools are energized.  When its time for lunch, I shut off the breaker feeding the secondary panel, and everything is de-energized. Has worked out great for me.  

   

I have a couple of ceiling drops for both 240 and 120 tools. Much better than tripping over extension cords.

   

I put LED spotlights over my bench: helps to see what you are doing.  

   

Now is the time to wire your shop for sound:

   

And finally, don't forget AC power/control/refrigeration lines: easier to do when the wall are open

   

Would someone tell me how to get the pictures in the correct orientation? Thanks

[Cecil]

I am almost done re-wiring my shop.  I used all romex, except I will have to use conduit when I replace a 14 gauge wire with 12 gauge, behind the fire-resistant wall.

I put 2 gang boxes every 3' for the 120V circuits.  Each box has 2 - 20 amp circuits, ivory and brown receptacles in each box.  I added a 20 amp, 220 V circuit every 8 feet.  I put in 4 ceiling 12V outlets.  The lights are on their own 15 amp circuit.  The lights are LED's, mounted to the ceiling, pluged into receptacles.  

At a later date, I will add a dedicate DC and Air Compressor circuits.

I just powered it up last Saturday, so I do not yet know what I wish I did differently.  My shop is my garage and is currently not insulated. I am screwing pegboard to the walls, so when I want to make changes, it will be relatively easy to gain access.  Eventually I would like to insulate and put up 3/8" ply.  I will screw that on as well.

Someone on the forum suggested Pass and Seymour as a quality outlet brand (Hubbell was also recommended), spec grade.  It was a very good choice.  There is a screw clamp on the receptacles, so I did not have to take time to bend the wire, but it is not relying on a spring loaded push-in connection.  I can definitely tell the difference in quality. 

I believe I installed everything to code, dated to when the garage was originally built.  I do not have to have it inspected, as long as I do not upgrade the entrance panel.  However, I want to be sure I meet the code as it existed then, so I don't have problems should I decide to sell.