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Have been a very faithful adherent of Deft Lacquer for a couple of decades. My typical routine is Paduak with tung oil, a coat of shellac to preserve the color, then Deft. However, i'm finding more and more that my intolerance is summer heat is pushing my project finish dates into the mid temperature (50-70's) very high humidity part of the year.
Is there a new finish that does what laquer does (goes over oil, is easily reparable, resists scotch, sprays, look great) but doesn't have the humidity/temperature application restrictions that Lacquer does?
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(03-09-2019, 05:26 PM)jgourlay Wrote: Have been a very faithful adherent of Deft Lacquer for a couple of decades. My typical routine is Paduak with tung oil, a coat of shellac to preserve the color, then Deft. However, i'm finding more and more that my intolerance is summer heat is pushing my project finish dates into the mid temperature (50-70's) very high humidity part of the year.
Is there a new finish that does what laquer does (goes over oil, is easily reparable, resists scotch, sprays, look great) but doesn't have the humidity/temperature application restrictions that Lacquer does?
If you use a light coat of Sealcoat shellac to seal in the tung oil, then waterborne lacquer should work just as well as Deft w/o the humidity related issues. In fact, higher RH values helps it flow out better. Deft makes a waterborne version. I've never used it but if you like Deft products it might have a similar look. GF and TC make WB lacquers, too.
John
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(03-09-2019, 07:41 PM)jteneyck Wrote: If you use a light coat of Sealcoat shellac to seal in the tung oil, then waterborne lacquer should work just as well as Deft w/o the humidity related issues. In fact, higher RH values helps it flow out better. Deft makes a waterborne version. I've never used it but if you like Deft products it might have a similar look. GF and TC make WB lacquers, too.
John
Is the WB lacquer repairable?
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(03-10-2019, 11:41 AM)jgourlay Wrote: Is the WB lacquer repairable?
Not the same way as nitrocellulous lacquer would be. WB stuff is likely to be a cross-linked acrylic and/or resins so little blobs of finish. Real lacquer would be long thin molecules that tangle and can be re-dissolved easily.
A repair of WB is likely to show witness marks.
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(03-10-2019, 12:06 PM)Rob Young Wrote: Not the same way as nitrocellulous lacquer would be. WB stuff is likely to be a cross-linked acrylic and/or resins so little blobs of finish. Real lacquer would be long thin molecules that tangle and can be re-dissolved easily.
A repair of WB is likely to show witness marks. Sometimes you have to recoat the entire surface in order to get a perfect look after doing the initial repair.
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(03-10-2019, 02:27 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Sometimes you have to recoat the entire surface in order to get a perfect look after doing the initial repair.
John
Indeed. Haven't knowingly tried to repair WB lacquer but my fall back for repairing polyurethane is strip and start over. That's why I like shellac...
The upshot is the WB isn't the same as the nitrocellulose and so one can't expect them to behave the same. Such is the price of "progress" (or at least advertising hyperbole).
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(03-11-2019, 09:12 AM)Rob Young Wrote: Indeed. Haven't knowingly tried to repair WB lacquer but my fall back for repairing polyurethane is strip and start over. That's why I like shellac...
The upshot is the WB isn't the same as the nitrocellulose and so one can't expect them to behave the same. Such is the price of "progress" (or at least advertising hyperbole).
I haven't used their WB lacquer, but Target Coatings swears they burn in just like NC lacquer, which should make repairs possible in the same way.
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You can also pick up a can of lacquer retarder and add a 5-10% mixture to extend your open time. Finding the right amount isn’t rocket science but realize it’s a balance between, heat, humidity, thickness of finish applied and open time. Too much keeps it wet or “open” and runs can occur on verticals or more time is allowed for dust to set in. Too little and your lacquer “blushes” or drags with a brush with little time to flow out. Brushing lacquer is lacquer with retarder added.
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(03-11-2019, 10:05 AM)jteneyck Wrote: I haven't used their WB lacquer, but Target Coatings swears they burn in just like NC lacquer, which should make repairs possible in the same way.
John
And yet their directions also say you must sand if the previous coat is over 24 hours old.
This does not sound like 100 per cent burn in to me. If you have to sand it, you won't be able to repair without recoating the whole thing.
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(03-16-2019, 12:56 AM)clovishound Wrote: And yet their directions also say you must sand if the previous coat is over 24 hours old.
This does not sound like 100 per cent burn in to me. If you have to sand it, you won't be able to repair without recoating the whole thing.
A lot of the WB coatings have a recoat window where it must dry for so many hours and be recoated within so many hours without having to sand. This is probably what they call the burn in time. Roly
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