Waxing table saws - Why?

[Wipedout]

I got the feeling that some of you feed your stock mostly by hand. Yes?

Unless I am handling a huge sheet, I use either a push shoe or block (like the Grrriper), and I have never experienced any binding of any kind on the surface. May be feeding your stock by hand is different. My crosscut sled's bottom is not waxed either, it glides smoothly since the runners (incra bars) offer a perfect fit, free of binding.

I do not wax my table whatsoever, but I do apply rust preventative like the T9, after a surface treatment with the WD40.

Perhaps the key reason I don't wax any of my machine tables is that it attracts dust, and given the humid condition my shop is, it is no no to my machines.

Simon

You don't wax but use T9 and it is considered (by the manufacturer) to be a lubricant so you still get the benefit that waxing does.  If you use T9, as you know, no need to Wax

[Splinter Puller]

I have a nice heated shop that stays dry.  I never wax any cast iron and it stays slick enough.

[Handplanesandmore]

You don't wax but use T9 and it is considered (by the manufacturer) to be a lubricant so you still get the benefit that waxing does.  If you use T9, as you know, no need to Wax

Good to know. I use paste wax for furniture pieces. though.

For those who do wax their machines, try this application tip - attach a felt type of material to your ROS to buff the machine surface, and it will save you a lot of elbow grease.

Simon

[Handplanesandmore]

It seems that the general consensus is that table saws should be waxed, or coated in some way.

Thanks
Ken

Consensus?

I know a lot more woodworkers who don't wax their tablesaws than those who do. In fact, many people I know don't even do anything about their saws (that is why we see a lot of saws with rusty spots).

Simon

[Handplanesandmore]

After using oils, wd40, lps and other oily films and still getting the occasional rust spots in my humid part of the world, I gave into the advice here and used Johnson's floor paste wax on all my cast iron tops and haven't had an issue with rust spots yet!

WD40 is not a rust preventative, removing moisture only. I have no experience with lps or oily films.

Paste wax has been found ineffective by both Fine Woodworking and Wood magazine in their controlled studies (ie in very humid conditions). It probably is not a good rust prevention choice for shops with high humidity (at times, it is well over 65% in my shop). My neighbor, a devoted sailor, uses Fluid Film to protect his metal tools, and claims no other stuff works better. 

Simon

[kdouglaslee]

I wax mine to prevent rust, but it does make my sled move across it a lot more freely.  BUT, I was in Sherwin Williams recently and the guy helping me said I shouldn't be using floor wax because it has a lot of water in it.  I googled it and, sure enough, he's right.  I'm going to try something else now, maybe a non silicone auto wax.

[Rob Young]

I wax mine to prevent rust, but it does make my sled move across it a lot more freely.  BUT, I was in Sherwin Williams recently and the guy helping me said I shouldn't be using floor wax because it has a lot of water in it.  I googled it and, sure enough, he's right.  I'm going to try something else now, maybe a non silicone auto wax.

What brand of floor wax were (are) you using? Cheap and cheerful Johnson's Paste wax is sold as a floor wax and general purpose wax and it really doesn't seem to have a high water content. It has never caused me an issue on cast iron.

[Admiral]

What brand of floor wax were (are) you using? Cheap and cheerful Johnson's Paste wax is sold as a floor wax and general purpose wax and it really doesn't seem to have a high water content. It has never caused me an issue on cast iron.

+1.  Been using it for 30 years, never an issue.

[handi]

I got the feeling that some of you feed your stock mostly by hand. Yes?

Unless I am handling a huge sheet, I use either a push shoe or block (like the Grrriper), and I have never experienced any binding of any kind on the surface. May be feeding your stock by hand is different. My crosscut sled's bottom is not waxed either, it glides smoothly since the runners (incra bars) offer a perfect fit, free of binding.

I do not wax my table whatsoever, but I do apply rust preventative like the T9, after a surface treatment with the WD40.

Perhaps the key reason I don't wax any of my machine tables is that it attracts dust, and given the humid condition my shop is, it is no no to my machines.

Simon

I have been waxing tops for 30 years as a pro.
I also have been using GRR-RIPPERs for 12 years. Still wax.
I have NEVER had an issue with paste wax “attracting dust”. The process is to rub on the wax, let it dry, then buff it. The wax layer left behind is pretty much unmeasurable. And dust simply blows off.

There is no question that a waxed surface, be it Saw, Router Table, band saw, jointer or planer bed, everything works more smoothly when waxed properly.

[kenlipfromoz]

Thanks to all for the great responses.  Very informative.  

While doing a bit more surfing for information, I found a fair amount of discussion about lanolin as a protectant against rust, for which it seems to be excellent.  I am not sure how good it is for reducing friction.

Has anyone here used lanolin for this purpose?

BTW, we can't get Johnson's wax in Australia, so I would need to find an equivalent.