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A long time ago when all the tools I had were a circular saw, drill, hammer, and a couple of corner clamps, I made a cabinet from 5/8" MDF using through dowel joints. I applied glue, clamped the pieces in position, then drilled through both parts, added glue and pounded in dowels. I think the dowels held well enough I would immediately move the only two clamps to the next joint. The cabinet held up fine. I'm not sure a domino would be any faster, though I wouldn't mind having one.
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IMO John is correct about the value of upgrading. I have a friend who on the advise of a real estate agent, spent quite a bit upgrading all the cabs in his house prior to selling.
Not only did he not recoup the cost from the original listing price, he found the entire kitchen piled in a dumpster on the curb a week after the closing -- apparently they exressed they didn't like the white cabs.
I agree on the Confirmat screws, but I only them for melamine cabs. I use standard screws in plywood/no glue.
I also agree with John that dowels are not necessary and create a lot more work. Same with dados as you noted.
I would focus on building economical cabs as efficiently as you can or else you aren't going to recoup on the sale.
If you refer to my previous post, simply screw them together/butt joints. Focus on efficient work flow and cutting all the parts to consistent dims.
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Biscuits are the ideal method of joining cabinet carcasses.
In the time it takes someone to switch from blade to dado, I can have all the joinery done and be ready for glue-up.
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I quit using biscuits on box work. I found there's no need there. I screwed all my boxes together. Butt joints.
Built my face frames with pocket screws.
By the time the frame and back goes on, there's no way that box is coming apart.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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Screws would be great/fast as well.
How do you guys hide the screws if the side of a cabinet is exposed?
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(05-02-2019, 06:28 AM)Phil Thien Wrote: Screws would be great/fast as well.
How do you guys hide the screws if the side of a cabinet is exposed?
I make faceframe cabinets. The face frame extends over the outside edge by 1/4". Exposed cabinets get a 1/4" thick end panel glued on and it covers all the screws, dowels, and the pocket holes used to fasten the face frame.
The only visible fasteners are the pocket holes exposed under the cabinet on the face frame, and I add a moulding to the bottom so even that would be very hard to see.
The tests on the fasteners showed that screws held panels together well, but offered little racking strength (lateral strength) when compared to confirmats and dowels. That only becomes a real issue when making free-standing islands that don't have a wall for a structural member.
If I were making an island I would create my own "wall" buy adding a sheet of plywood across all the joined cabinet backs. You are going to cover the backs anyway so the plywood will not show and it will add a lot of rigidity.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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(05-02-2019, 06:28 AM)Phil Thien Wrote: Screws would be great/fast as well.
How do you guys hide the screws if the side of a cabinet is exposed?
I make a panel to cover the side.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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I always used a finished 3/4 ply side for the exposed side. It's attached to the bottom and top pieces from those pieces, into that side panel.
So no trim, nor 1/4" cover panel necessary.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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(05-02-2019, 09:34 AM)Stwood_ Wrote: I always used a finished 3/4 ply side for the exposed side. It's attached to the bottom and top pieces from those pieces, into that side panel.
So no trim, nor 1/4" cover panel necessary.
I also use 3/4" for the sides, tops and bottoms of cabinets. I still find it easier to allow the 1/4" extra on the width of the face frame. If the wall is not perfectly straight it still allows the face frames to meet up perfectly in the front. It allows you to scribe for the wall if required. And it allows me to use pocket hole screws to attach the face frame. Overall it makes it easier to build the cabinets.
Commercial cabinet manufacturers cannot leave exposed fasteners even if they are to be covered with a end panel. It does not look right to the consumer. But for the custom cabinet maker who will install the cabinets himself, this is much less of an issue.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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I'm talking about a finished panel that sits in the open, not against a wall. There is no need or reason to leave a 1/4 overhang there.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
