I recently re discovered scraping as a finished surface prep. It depends on the wood of course and a very light sanding with some 220-320 is sometimes required. I have a Stanley 112,81, and a 12, plus a good card scraper. Sharpening is very easy after a bit of "experimenting", it sure saves me a bunch of monotonous sanding!
Once I discovered card scrapers, I spent far less $$$ on sandpaper. Sandpaper still has its place, but I don’t use the lower grits much at all.
Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
(07-10-2019, 05:20 PM)Bibliophile 13 Wrote: Once I discovered card scrapers, I spent far less $$$ on sandpaper. Sandpaper still has its place, but I don’t use the lower grits much at all.
(07-10-2019, 05:20 PM)Bibliophile 13 Wrote: Once I discovered card scrapers, I spent far less $$$ on sandpaper. Sandpaper still has its place, but I don’t use the lower grits much at all.
Now experiment! Take a sharp plane blade and pull towards you (works very well). Try one of the handled Stanley scrapers-they made many varieties. For first finishing, a scraper right off a filing will have a burr and work, but remember, for the best surface, the more you prep, the better the resulting work.
Also remember on sft wood, results are generally not that acceptable, but a scraper is still great to remove glue squeeze outs. On a hardwood, I can easily get asurface ready for finishing. You need a burnisher harder than the scraper, to burnish correctly.
(07-10-2019, 11:35 AM)Smashedfinger Wrote: I recently re discovered scraping as a finished surface prep. It depends on the wood of course and a very light sanding with some 220-320 is sometimes required. I have a Stanley 112,81, and a 12, plus a good card scraper. Sharpening is very easy after a bit of "experimenting", it sure saves me a bunch of monotonous sanding!
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Here's Paul Hamler's take on scrapers... how to make a good one and what he uses for steel.........I can testify that his idea on HSS works as advertised..
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