Inlay Thicknesser

[barryvabeach]

 One possibility is I am assuming he is pushing the blade with the bevel in front and he may be pushing with the bevel in the back. Could that explain everything. Also if i rehone do you know if the burr created is good enough to just skip to turning the hook?

Woody,  the bevel is behind the face that is doing the scraping.  The burr is towards the slot   - in the diagram I posted, it is downwards and towards the left - though it will curl back very slightly to the right.    For more on the  burr,    Look at step 3 on page 5 of the Lee Valley instructions for tuning a scraping plane blade,  http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.as...10&p=48431



BTW ,  you can definitely scrap wood without a burr, though it is possible the thicknesser will work better with a burr

[AHill]

Thanks for your ideas. I may have messed the hook up by tilting the chisel toward the blade and I also probably used too much pressure. When done properly does the hook point inward the flat end of the blade? I thought it did and that's why Steve's test on a board after turning the burr confused me when he pushes the blade away from himself, i.e., your're not pushing the front of the hook against the wood, if that makes sense. One possibility is I am assuming he is pushing the blade with the bevel in front and he may be pushing with the bevel in the back. Could that explain everything. Also if i rehone do you know if the burr created is good enough to just skip to turning the hook?

Yes, the bevel faces away from the bevel.  He's pushing the blade with the bevel pointed back toward him.  The hook / burr is leading into the cut when he's scraping.

[woodydixon]

Ok making real progress.  Rehoned the bevel and drew out a burr taking the back of chisel flat across the edge then turning it up with the edge of the chisel at 90 degrees across the end. The test on the board made shavings and after putting the blades back on the holder got shavings pulling inlay through the gap. Made a point to use less pressure forming the burr and used 1/32 thick inlay instead of 1/16 inch. 

Still not entirely clear how the hook could be drawn back by tilting the chisel outward, as some have suggested. Seems that would draw the hook the wrong way. Also, Barry or anyone else, if you made the ln holder what hardware did you use and where did you get it?

Again, many thanks to all for your help in solving this issue.

Woody

[barryvabeach]

Woody   ,  glad you had some success.  Not sure what you mean by the in holder?   BTW,  the more I thought about it ,the more I think getting the blank the right size is critically important.  If you took a hand plane and had the blade project from the sole 1 /8 of a inch, you would have no success planing a board.  Here there is no sole, so having the stock the right size,  or having a very long taper to the blade, is pretty important, otherwise you will be trying to hog off a ton of material at a time, and it just won't work.

[woodydixon]

Barry,ch ch 

The holder is the piece of wood the blades are screwed into. My screws are wood screws which will eventually fail. The LN holder uses a bolt which screws into some sort of cap or barrel nut on the backside.

YOu were spot on about thickness. It works much better working with 1/32 inlay rather than 1/16 and narrowing the gap between the blade and wood on the opposite side. Thanks again.

Woody

[barryvabeach]

Woody,  I used wood screws.  I have run probably between 50 to 100 feet of inlay, and have not had a problem with the wood screws getting loose.  Once you set it, I almost never took the blade out.  If you are worried, you could always thread it for a machine screw, then drip some super glue into the threads to harden them, then re tap once the glue dries.   Again,  I made a fairly wide taper , so I don't have to adjust it often.

[woodydixon]

Makes sense. Thanks again, Barry.

Woody

[barryvabeach]

Woody, glad you got it working.  Barry.