Genius Hack of the Century

[Derek Cohen]

Daddo, similar to that - and certainly part of what got my thoughts working - a friend of mine, who is a high end designer/maker, would run a length of white veneer tape across the end of his boards, and then pencil in the dovetails. It was a step from this to use blue tape and slice away the waste.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Handplanesandmore]

I don't see writing something on a tape and slicing a tape to show the cut lines in the same light. The latter provides not only a visual aid but for learners still developing their sawing skill, also a physical help to guide the sawing. The former was (relatively) obvious in its use (even among non-woodworking uses), but not the latter. The two aren't remotely the same thing.

Simon

[Tony Z]

I mentioned about Wearing's aid in another thread. There, I called Barron's an improved version of Wearing's as the lip is essential.

I didn't recall seeing the jig in Practical Woodworker. Please share the page # if you found it.

Simon

Those using a Moxon vise can improve on the Barron aid very simply: first, on the back jaw, add a piece of stock to support your workpiece (instead of resting on the side of a plane or whatever). Second, affix a thin piece of stock to the top of the Moxon (I used 1/4" thick)). Third, squaring down the inside of the back jaw, affix another piece of the same thin stock. Now you have positive registration for both sides of the dovetail without all the fussing of the Barron aid.

[Handplanesandmore]

 Now you have positive registration for both sides of the dovetail without all the fussing of the Barron aid.

That is a three-step process...Barron's is two-step and the jig is self-sufficient without the need for any other support pieces to work. (Note: the alignment board can also work in a moxon vise, though that's not my approach.)

Could you elaborate a bit on what the fussing is?

Simon

[Derek Cohen]

I have written about the limitations I experience with the alignment board. Another is that it only deals with 90 degree corners. I build a lot or curved front drawers, and the sides are no longer 90 degrees. For this reason, I simply use a wooden square to align the sides. It obviously works well since the drawers I build end up square








Regards from Perth

Derek

[mound]

I don't know credit can go to any one person. 
I know I saw my father in law do this at least 10yrs ago, and he's not on the innerwebs.

[Tony Z]

That is a three-step process...Barron's is two-step and the jig is self-sufficient without the need for any other support pieces to work. (Note: the alignment board can also work in a moxon vise, though that's not my approach.)

Could you elaborate a bit on what the fussing is?

Simon

A three step process to make, but only one step to use: your squared alignment boards are already fastened to the Moxon and you simply butt your work pieces to them. I've never mastered posting pics here, but if someone sends me their email address, I'll send a pic of my set-up.

[Rob Young]

I mentioned about Wearing's aid in another thread. There, I called Barron's an improved version of Wearing's as the lip is essential.

I didn't recall seeing the jig in Practical Woodworker. Please share the page # if you found it.

Simon

When I get a chance AND remember I plan to go page through a few things. 

I do sort of remember a version from Wearing that DOES have the lip but darned if I can confirm that.  

Mine is just butt jointed plywood, some pocket screws and scrap pin-nailed as the fence. Doesn't need to be fancy.

[Tony Z]

There's been many Galoots before us, all offering tricks and aides to our craft. I have every book by Wearing (one of my favories), buy many others equal to the task, such as Ian Kirby, David Charlesworth and so forth.

I doubt if any of us have come with anything new, except that painters tape trick, that I have used and like very much (Derek's blog was the first I saw of it).

[Handplanesandmore]

Mine is just butt jointed plywood, some pocket screws and scrap pin-nailed as the fence. Doesn't need to be fancy.

My criteria for a good jig: simple and cheap to make, stable (if it matters) and functional. I can't imagine using a Benchcrafted product to make a moxon vise...I'd rather spend that kind of money on lumber for my projects. I made my moxon vise out of 2x4. For the alignment boards, simple butt joint too and scrap wood.

What really counts is the result of the work, not the jig that is used to make it. Some people spend 80% of their time on their shops and 20% on builds, some the opposite...I belong to the latter.

Simon