Posts: 118
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2014
Location: Maryland
09-30-2019, 06:48 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-30-2019, 06:58 PM by edgy.)
Last of my chair building questions. (So far
) These will be for a dining room table and probably some variation of a ladder back, with stretchers side to side and front to back between legs for seat support.
I'm gonna need cherry blanks app 18"x 18" x 1-1/2". Is it ok to laminate them staggering the glue lines?
Should I go thicker on the seat material, say to 2" ?
Thanks!
Posts: 6,107
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
I would start with 8/4 material milled down and glue up for the width. I would not laminate wood to get the thickness.
Posts: 2,274
Threads: 90
Joined: Jun 2001
I have watched a few videos about making chairs. All of the chair makers stated that it is best to use a solid piece. We all know glue joints will creep over time. With the stress on the seats I would go for a solid piece.
I like cushioned seats but there are chairs out there that scream for solid seats - Windsor for sure - Sam Mulloff another. By using the thicken blank you can scoop out the bottom to make it more comfortable.
John
Always use the right tool for the job.
We need to clean house.
Posts: 4,133
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Lawrence, KS
Yep, solid blank if you can. Best that it is well seasoned/dried and be patient with it during initial milling so you don't make a banana seat. Those belong on 1970's bicycles...
A slip-seat style chair would use less material and affords the opportunity to "refresh" the look of the chair by changing out the material once in a while.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
Posts: 118
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2014
Location: Maryland
Finding 8/4 anything in that width is not easy for me, let alone cherry. I think glued up for width is gonna have to be my choice.
Thanks for the input.
Posts: 8,395
Threads: 1
Joined: Mar 2000
10-01-2019, 01:08 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-02-2019, 06:02 AM by R Clark.
Edit Reason: Correct typo
)
I've done a few chairs. Never had an issue with the glue-up to get the desired width, and the newest of those chairs is now 6 years old.
For chair seats with underlying structure as shown in your picture, I don't think there would be an issue with 4/4 stock. 8/4 if you want, I suppose, but that would be for the look you desire and not necessarily strength.
Posts: 12,197
Threads: 2
Joined: Nov 1999
Location: Nebraska City
(10-01-2019, 01:08 PM)WxMan Wrote: I've done a few chairs. Never had an issue with the glue-up to get the desired width, and the newest of those chairs is now 6 years old.
For chair seats with underlying structure as shown in your picture, I don't think there would be an issue with 4/4 stock. 4/4 if you want, I suppose, but that would be for the look you desire and not necessarily strength.
Couple hundred chairs under my belt, every one of them with glued up seat blanks. For those worried about strength, look at all the fancy rocking chair makers. The entire chair is built around the seat.
Posts: 118
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2014
Location: Maryland
Thanks to all. The 8/4 may well be overkill and I can certainly save a few bucks by using 6/4 and glue up the blanks.
Sounds like a plan.
Posts: 4,444
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2005
(10-01-2019, 12:41 PM)edgy Wrote: Finding 8/4 anything in that width is not easy for me, let alone cherry. I think glued up for width is gonna have to be my choice.
Thanks for the input.
I'm not a chair builder but I think gluing for width would be okay. I looked at my dining room chairs which are cherry. I turned two upside down and saw that they were laminated for width. One chair had two seams and another one seam. Looks like a one piece seat right side up.
Imagine the other 6 chairs are also glued up.
mike
