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I have a Stanley 110 that I hate, so it never gets used. For three last year or more once been using my Stanley 92 as a block plane, but we know that isn't its real job.
So I'm in the market for a good block plane. One that has a screw to advance and retract the blade (unlike my soon-to-be-trashed 110!).
I don't mind paying for quality, but don't want to pay a whole lot for diminishing returns.
Suggestions?
Semper fi,
Brad
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02-18-2020, 10:46 AM
Hard to go wrong with either a Stanley 60 or 60-1/2 (same plane, different finish) or a Stanley 9-1/2 (or, if you find one, 18, same plane with the knuckle joint lever cap). The first two will be better on end grain, and fine on most long grain work. The second two will be better if you use the plane frequently as a small long grain smoother. Eventually, one of each style will not hurt.
Avoid the maroon ones, but the black and blue painted ones should be OK. If you're buying online, look closely at the condition and ask questions about chipping in the casting around the mouth.
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Oh, I need one that's good on end grain. My main projects are small boxes with lots of splined miter joints.
Semper fi,
Brad
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(02-18-2020, 11:17 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Oh, I need one that's good on end grain. My main projects are small boxes with lots of splined miter joints.
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Low angle Stanley #65....best all-around block IMO.......fits the hand better. Definitely not a toy....
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02-18-2020, 11:48 AM
(This post was last modified: 02-18-2020, 12:03 PM by hbmcc.)
I have been on a multi-year search for a plane that works, for me. My needs are not the same as yours, but there probably is a block out there with your name on it.
Used can be good only if they are in good shape. There are sharky skunks in the Bay posing as sweet salmon. Lots of them! A style can also be miserable in hand or setting a blade. I've been happy with a knuckle-cap version of a #57 Millers Falls, a spitting mirror of Stanley's #65; the irons even co-habit. I found another last month at 1/3 the cost of a 65--and a good one! Stanley has a name people pay for.
The worse thing about used is the fix-up 90% require. That's where our S&S is so helpful and respected. The restorer's here have pride in providing well fitted users.
Here's some links:
https://virginiatoolworks.com/2014/01/27...mystified/
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan9.htm
New models (in production) by LV and LN are noticeably improved. The extra cost is lot more palatable now that decent antique versions are reaching 3 figures. LV F**ks up blades so their sharpening guides need to be used, and; one of their planes won't fit the honing doo-dads. The current Chinese junk version-manufacture of Stanley's is little more than that. I don't know anything about other Asian copies, only that in our market they are grossly overpriced.
What I like about new from LV and LN is that little or no setup is required, so what you open is what you get.
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(02-18-2020, 11:17 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Oh, I need one that's good on end grain. My main projects are small boxes with lots of splined miter joints.
You're in MD and local, so I'd suggest you wait until March 14 and go to the PATINA tailgating in Damascus MD, you're likely to find every one recommended above, and be able to fondle and inspect them.
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Two hours each way.
Is it worth the time in the car?
Semper fi,
Brad
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(02-18-2020, 01:00 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Two hours each way.
Is it worth the time in the car?
hmmm, depends on what else you might find; for one or two blocks probably not. Just googled, somehow I thought you were in plain old Frederick, now I see Prince Frederick is way east and south.... my bad.
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02-18-2020, 01:14 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-18-2020, 01:21 PM by Bill_Houghton.)
(02-18-2020, 11:48 AM)hbmcc Wrote: ...a spitting mirror...
I would not want to comb my hair in front of a spitting mirror, although better a spitting mirror than a spitting cobra. But I could understand why a mirror, confronted by my face, might react that way.
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Get off my lawn !
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