Sharpening jigs, which one?

[hardinluke]

I’m looking to get more use out of my lathe, and being able to sharpen my own tools in my shop is a must. A local woodworker here showed me the ropes to sharpen my tools, and he has a Oneway sharpening jig for his bench grinder. I found a few other systems available online at a bit lower cost, but I’m curious what the crowd here thinks. Seems like the Oneway jig system is the best/most popular available. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

[Arlin Eastman]

The OneWay system came out first and that is why everyone has or knows of it.  I see PennstateInd has one and there are two others out there now.

I forget the name I seen but I think I would go with that one now.

[MichaelMouse]

I’m looking to get more use out of my lathe, and being able to sharpen my own tools in my shop is a must. A local woodworker here showed me the ropes to sharpen my tools, and he has a Oneway sharpening jig for his bench grinder. I found a few other systems available online at a bit lower cost, but I’m curious what the crowd here thinks. Seems like the Oneway jig system is the best/most popular available. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

I use the Underhill method - letting the tool be its own jig.   Since my objective is to take as little off at the grinder as is necessary to renew the edge, I don't to want spend much time adjusting/readjusting a jig.  I get by making one pass R to L followed by one L to R.

Longer bevels peel better, shorter hog better.

[hardinluke]

Thanks Arlin. I kind of assumed that may be the case. I’ll do more research before I make a choice.
MichaelMouse, thanks for the input!

[iclark]

For gouges, the Oneway is hard to beat. There are lots of others out there and some have been out there longer, but the basic Oneway system with the Vari-Grind for fingernail-grind sharpening works well for me. I prefer the original Vari-Grind for me, so I gave my VG-2 version to my BIL.

I use the sharpening pdf from Doug Thompson's site to set the angle for the VG and have a bench stop to consistently and quickly set how far a gouge sticks out of the VG. Other people have drilled a hole of the proper depth into a piece of wood for the gauge: put the gouge into the VG so that it sticks out too far, then put the gouge into the gauge and slide the VG until it hits the gauge and lock it down.

For skews and scrapers, the Oneway flat platform has worked well for me (once I fettled it), but I admit to wanting to upgrade it to a RoboRest that fits into the Oneway base. The RoboRest was developed by a WNer (RoboHippy) and is just simply elegant and well-made with a larger surface than the Oneway.

You do NOT need the Oneway skew attachment. The flat platform works better and is much more flexible - especially for those of us that prefer the Lacer-grind for a skew.

An additional advantage to the Oneway is that you can move the fixtures from side to side of a grinder or from grinder to grinder if you have more than one grinder. DAMHIKT

It might be worth posting a WTB in the SnS for a Oneway. They do not come up often and they tend to go quickly when they do. IIRC, my 2nd Oneway came through SnS here.

You could also try setting camelcamelcamel to track Oneway prices on Amazon to see if they run a sale.

[PVW]

I’m looking to get more use out of my lathe, and being able to sharpen my own tools in my shop is a must. A local woodworker here showed me the ropes to sharpen my tools, and he has a Oneway sharpening jig for his bench grinder. I found a few other systems available online at a bit lower cost, but I’m curious what the crowd here thinks. Seems like the Oneway jig system is the best/most popular available. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

I use Robo Hippies  sharpening platform.

[paul2004]

There's lots of ways to get the job done. I tried a lot of different ways and spent a lot of money in the process. I finally got a Tormek, and it made a huge difference, due to my lack of skill. I used the oneway jig for a long time, but I think over time, you lose the "Factory reference" edge and all the errors add up over the years (At least for me they did).

I know it's a lot of money, but you can use the tormek on your kitchen knives, plane blades, chisels and other stuff too. It's very accurate. Yes, it takes a bit of time, especially if you are correcting a bevel previously messed up.. but after the first time, goes realitively quickly.. If you are going to be in the woodworking hobby a long time, I suggest you consider it. I am not trying to be a tool snob here, but if I bought the Tormek first, it would have probably saved me $400-600 that I spent trying other methods.

[Arlin Eastman]

I use Robo Hippies  sharpening platform.

I forgot about that.  I love his stuff for scrappers and my skew.  I love having it.

He also sells a scrapper that is harder then the carbide and stays sharp a lot longer to.  He gave me both of them

His store

https://www.robohippy.net/store

His rests

https://www.robohippy.net/store/robo-res...compatible

https://www.robohippy.net/store/robo-res...e-standing

His scrapper which I think is the very best.  He sells the 1" and 3/4"

https://www.robohippy.net/store/small-bi...-bar-stock

[hardinluke]

Thanks everyone for the information! Seems like I have a few options to consider. I think for now, the Tormek is out of range, but I take the point that I will likely spend more $$ in the long run.
All the advice is much appreciated!

[iclark]

If you have not already bought an 8" grinder, you might want to consider the 1hp from Woodturning Wonders along with a pair of their CBN wheels. That is the latest upgrade for my shop.

If you do stay with stone wheels, please do not try to install new wheels with the nested plastic mess that comes with them as spindle spacers. There are metal spacers/adapters available or there are spacers that come with the Oneway grinder wheel balancing kit. Without one or the other, the wheels will find a way to drift off-center over time and maintaining the wheels as round become a problem.