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I recently posted about Jet DC remote; almost always turns on the DC, but almost never turns off the DC. Changing the battery did not help.
I took the suggestion given to buy a set of remote controlled sockets with a remote. Two problems: 1. DC came on for a Nano second (apparently blowing the socket), 2. DC switches to off when power is lost at the plug.
This is what I bought BN-LINK ES1513-5-2 Wireless Remote Control Outlet
Really am at a loss and looking to the WN brain trust for some help.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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02-22-2020, 12:41 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-22-2020, 12:46 PM by Admiral.)
Others will be more informed, but what you bought was rated for only 10 amp; there are 20amp ones out there:
https://www.amazon.com/X10-PAM04-Heavy-A...lp_pl_dp_1
Don't know if this will help you.....
Edit: kept looking and found this one, 40amp:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTL3TG6/ref=dp_cerb_3?th=1 and check the reviews as there are several dealing with hooking up to dust collectors.....
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(02-22-2020, 12:41 PM)Admiral Wrote: Others will be more informed, but what you bought was rated for only 10 amp; there are 20amp ones out there:
Ok that makes since, I should have thought that out before buying.
But I don't see how any of these remote sockets will work because the DC "controls" switch off when power is lost at the plug. Example: turn on the DC (it runs), pull the plug, reinsert the plug, the DC does not come on until you push the On button.
Looks like I have to get a new Jet remote, what do you guys think?
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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I think you need a new remote...I also think it shouldn't be Jet (cost). You can get a Long ranger, cut your Jet remote off and put a plug in it's place. then just plug it into the long ranger. An even better plan would be to get a contactor with a 120 V coil and make your own. The contactor is industrial grade stuff and will last in a hobbyist shop forever. The coil is switched with one of those cheap lamp remotes similar to the one you bought. When the coil is switched on the contactor closes sending current to the DC. With this setup, if the remotes goes bad you simply replace it. I use the $10 ones ($5 around Christmas time) to power my 5 HP DC with this kind of setup.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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I have used a remote controllere similar to the BN-LINK ES1513-5-2 Wireless Remote Control Outlet Bill mentioned above, but I wired it with a 110V-30A relay (such as this https://www.ebay.com/itm/JQX-30F-2Z-AC-1...2749.l2649); I use the remote to trip the relay without worrying about burning out the relay in the BN-LINK.
The nice thing about this setup is that you can controll multiple devices using the same controller.
Warren
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(02-22-2020, 02:49 PM)fredhargis Wrote: I think you need a new remote...I also think it shouldn't be Jet (cost). You can get a Long ranger, cut your Jet remote off and put a plug in it's place. then just plug it into the long ranger. An even better plan would be to get a contactor with a 120 V coil and make your own. The contactor is industrial grade stuff and will last in a hobbyist shop forever. The coil is switched with one of those cheap lamp remotes similar to the one you bought. When the coil is switched on the contactor closes sending current to the DC. With this setup, if the remotes goes bad you simply replace it. I use the $10 ones ($5 around Christmas time) to power my 5 HP DC with this kind of setup.
What he said. I used a definite purpose contactor with 120 volt coil. The remote is powering the contactor's coil (takes less than 1 amp) instead of the machine (many more amps). You'll need an electrical box, I used a plastic one about 6" cube. Drill holes for cable clamps as required.
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(02-23-2020, 06:23 AM)kurt18947 Wrote: What he said. I used a definite purpose contactor with 120 volt coil. The remote is powering the contactor's coil (takes less than 1 amp) instead of the machine (many more amps). You'll need an electrical box, I used a plastic one about 6" cube. Drill holes for cable clamps as required.
Packard C230B is available on Amazon for less than $10 it’s rated for 30 amps 220v and is activated with 120 across the coil side.
I have 2 of these running dust collectors using cheap Christmas light remotes to activate them.
So $10 for relay, $10 for the remote to activate and another $15 for cords and box to contain it and your looking at about $35-40 for a remote that’s rated for 30amps and you can repair rather than replace if and when it fails.
It’s one of the few times an electronic device can be built for less than a commercially available product.
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I wanted to keep my DC to all 220v so I could only have one plug. I had a contactor with a 220v coil already in my junk box. The 220 lines in my shop for the DC don't have a neutral, so I couldn't use a 110v plug. There are wifi relays that take 220v and can be controlled from Alexa. I have alexa in my shop for music. There is open source software to modify some plugs and the relays so that it doesn't tell some server in China that your DC is on.
Thanks to BloomingtonMike for helping me figure all of this out.
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02-26-2020, 10:23 AM
(This post was last modified: 02-26-2020, 10:25 AM by TDKPE.)
Something you have to be aware of with induction motors is that the locked-rotor current (LRA) is typically 5-8 times the rated full-load current (FLA), and can be even higher, though that's unusual for small motors. When starting a motor, it's initially at a dead stop, so the LRA applies at the beginning of the start sequence. For a random 2 hp, 3600, TEFC Baldor motor, FLC is 11A, and LRA is 79A. That's over 7 times it's FLC current.
A 10A lighting control can't handle an 80A starting current, and potentially worse, disconnecting the motor from the mains while running. Inductive devices like motors and transformers don't like being disconnected, and will arc when the contacts open. It's why circuit breakers, especially larger ones, have arc chutes - to control the arcing as they're opened.
You need a motor rated contactor to control an induction motor reliably. If you can't find an all-in-one unit that will work for you, use a low power remote to control the coil of a heavy relay. As others have described above.
If your motor has a box on the nameplate with "Code", or "kVA Code", there's a letter in that box that translates to the starting current (range, actually) as a function of rated HP and rated voltage. But it's going to be high, no matter what the kVA Code letter is; that much is a given.
Tom
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If you are handy with electrical wire, I think the best solution is to have several wall switches in your shop to turn on the DC. I have four switches in mine near the Bandsaw, tablesaw, mitre saw and workbench. That spaces them pretty evenly across the shop..
I tried remotes. Even when they work, I lose time trying to find the remote.
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