Entry hall table for a niece: VIDEO

[Derek Cohen]

Today I completed the second and third drawer fronts ...



Since I had only come across one article on making the lipped drawers - and that predominantly used power tools - and failed to find a single video on the topic, I decided to make one myself:



This is a real-time video - no editing. So skip the parts as they bore you. Hopefully some of it will amuse. Or watch at bedtime if you are insomniac


Regards from Perth

Derek

[rectangle618]

This is a real-time video - no editing. So skip the parts as they bore you. Hopefully some of it will amuse. Or watch at bedtime if you are insomniac


Regards from Perth

Derek

Wonderful video! Thank you for making and posting it. I usually learn something from your contributions here, and look forward to more.

[grwold]

That's fantastic, Derek. Thank you!

[cputnam]

I am struck by the economy of movement you exhibit. It is very clear that you have developed a standard approach to a number of problems and have oriented your shop accordingly. There were at least a dozen or so points during that process when I would have gotten distracted and forgotten what I was doing. It is said that habit is nature's automation. The video was much appreciated and was quite well done. You are perhaps the only top tier woodworker who makes precision hand tool woodworking approachable.

[C. in Indy]

Great work, Derek!

I can imagine that's pretty satisfying to get those drawers sequenced and gapped so tightly.

One other time, I did a mere shadow of that matching (no dovetails though, and having the crutch of side-hung runners) at least as well as I could given the board-size constraints I had on curly maple.  I also bought an 'Aussie' block plane in the course of that year, which helped for the fine-tuning.  Here was the 'in white' status before final staining and finishing...

   


Chris

[Derek Cohen]

I am struck by the economy of movement you exhibit.  It is very clear that you have developed a standard approach to a number of problems and have oriented your shop accordingly.  There were at least a dozen or so points during that process when I would have gotten distracted and forgotten what I was doing.  It is said that habit is nature's automation.  The video was much appreciated and was quite well done.  You are perhaps the only top tier woodworker who makes precision hand tool woodworking approachable.

Curt, you are too kind. 

Delusional as well


Warm regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Great work, Derek!

I can imagine that's pretty satisfying to get those drawers sequenced and gapped so tightly.

One other time, I did a mere shadow of that matching (no dovetails though, and having the crutch of side-hung runners) at least as well as I could given the board-size constraints I had on curly maple.  I also bought an 'Aussie' block plane in the course of that year, which helped for the fine-tuning.  Here was the 'in white' status before final staining and finishing...




Chris

That is very nice, Chris. One of the less understood areas of building furniture is the time and effort that goes into matching figure and grain. And this piece of your really tests this area to the max.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tapper]

Very nice work on the lipped dovetails and the techniques you used - excellent video! Three specific things caught my eye: 1) That "plunging" tool you made with the blunt end to define the pins - would never have thought about that. 2) Clamping the board across its width before beginning to remove the waste to preserve the integrity of the board from damage, and 3) Very sharp chisels necessary to make clean cuts in what seems like very dense material.

Could you elaborate somewhat on what that "plunging" tool looked like before you made it into a blunt-end chisel? Thank you very much for sharing this video and your workmanship - excellent in every way!

Doug

[Derek Cohen]

Doug ...

The blade of the kerfing chisel is the same width as most dovetail saws, 0.02”. This is also the width of most cabinet scrapers.

The end is squared off, and does not have a bevel. A bevel would cleave the wood and cause it to split. I always use a clamp to minimise this, and take small “bites”.







I made this from a stainless steel trowel, so it is not perfectly even in thickness.


The article on my website is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeToo...hisel.html

I emphasise small bites - no more than about 1/8” at a time after the saw kerf ends here. The existing saw kerf aids in initially directing the kerfing. It went along more easily than I expected - I was apprehensive how this would work in the hard and brittle Jarrah.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[mound]

Cool to put a face and voice to all the text and pix I've seen over the years!