Table Saw Cut? Misalignment?

[Scoony]

So I have been noticing lately that rip cuts on my table saw will leave a cross hatched pattern on the side of the blade towards the fence and a [perfectly smooth cut on the off side. Rip cuts are straight so I have been living with it. 

This is a Jet Cabinet saw with the newer Biesemeyer fence  I did go through the process of aligning the table to the blade. The only issue I know of is the fence surface is not exactly flat, but I would have to remove that fence material and replace it to fix that. 

What would be a common cause of this?

These are the cut surfaces. On the right is the fence side. The left is the cut surface opposite the fence.  Never mind that knife mark at the bottom, that for a hinge placement.

 

   

[Willyou]

First. Make sure there is no damage to the blade on that side; like a chipped or bent tooth. If the blade is OK, try setting your fence just a hair farther away form the blade on the outfeed end.

[packerguy®]

First. Make sure there is no damage to the blade on that side; like a chipped or bent tooth. If the blade is OK, try setting your fence just a hair farther away form the blade on the outfeed end.

What blade are you using.

if it was an alignment issue on the fence side of the blade, I would expect to see burning.

A damaged blade would be my first thought as well.

[Scoony]

Dang, did not even think of a damaged blade. It is a newish Freud blade. I will check it tomorrow when I get a chance.

[iclark]

I did go through the process of aligning the table to the blade. The only issue I know of is the fence surface is not exactly flat, but I would have to remove that fence material and replace it to fix that.
 

Sounds like you have a sacrificial attachment on the fence. Does it have enough "give" that it could be bouncing the board against the blade?

If you crosscut a board or crosscut a slot in the board, what kind of surfaces do you get?

[handi]

Sounds like the fence is very slightly out of alignment.
Since the tool marks are on the rip side, the back of the fence s slightly closer to the blade than the front.

The lack of burn marks probably means it is a slight offset. The teeth are thicker that the blade body, so a slight angle would show Tool marks without burning which comes from rubbing on the blade body.

I posted a recent video showing an easy and inexpensive set up jig if you need one: https://www.woodcademy.com/skillbuilding/saw-setup

[mike4244]

So I have been noticing lately that rip cuts on my table saw will leave a cross hatched pattern on the side of the blade towards the fence and a [perfectly smooth cut on the off side. Rip cuts are straight so I have been living with it. 

This is a Jet Cabinet saw with the newer Biesemeyer fence  I did go through the process of aligning the table to the blade. The only issue I know of is the fence surface is not exactly flat, but I would have to remove that fence material and replace it to fix that. 

What would be a common cause of this?

These are the cut surfaces. On the right is the fence side. The left is the cut surface opposite the fence.  Never mind that knife mark at the bottom, that for a hinge placement.

 

You aligned the table to the blade, good, did you align the fence to the blade ? The nylon or whatever the fence has on it may not be flat.
I removed the nylon and replaced it with plywood that has a smooth overlay. MDO (medium density overlay) correct name.
Original was not completely flat and do not know if it can be planed. You may be able to shim the nylon between it and the steel box beam.
mike

[Scoony]

Sounds like the fence is very slightly out of alignment.
Since the tool marks are on the rip side, the back of the fence s slightly closer to the blade than the front.

The lack of burn marks probably means it is a slight offset. The teeth are thicker that the blade body, so a slight angle would show Tool marks without burning which comes from rubbing on the blade body.

I posted a recent video showing an easy and inexpensive set up jig if you need one: https://www.woodcademy.com/skillbuilding/saw-setup

I was actually looking at that last night and plan to make one. Thanks.

[Scoony]

You aligned the table to the blade, good, did you align the fence to the blade ? The nylon or whatever the fence has on it may not be flat.
I removed the nylon and replaced it with plywood that has a smooth overlay. MDO (medium density overlay) correct name.
Original was not completely flat and do not know if it can be planed. You may be able to shim the nylon between it and the steel box beam.
mike

My fence as the ply with laminate type material and it is not flat. I am guessing that it is glued on, unless the bolts are under the laminate material. I would like to replace it at some point.

[GeeDub]

I was actually looking at that last night and plan to make one. Thanks.

Another shop made setup jig.  I had a fence with up to .007" deviation along its face in the feed path.  Depending what the faces are made of they can be replaced or sanded smooth.  A layer of sandpaper on a known flat surface and a few rubs back and forth will get you "better" on UHMW faces at least.

   

   

   

I shoot for as near zero as I can from the left miter slot to the blade (the picture is for an example). then use the same miter slot to the fence to align it.  If you are using a thin kerf blade, look into some stabilizers and adjust your feed rate.  The marks on your example look like you are feeding pretty fast.  This could just be from the pattern but, consider trying different speeds.  Here's some beech on a well aligned TK bladed hybrid.