Veneer tape residue removal

[Cooler]

I have never used this on veneer, but vegetable oil, if left overnight will remove tape residue on hard surfaces.  On surfaces that are vertical, mayonnaise, which is about 90% vegetable oil works if left overnight.

But I suspect the oil will soak into the wood and cause discoloration.  It also might affect finishes applied afterwards.  Test first.

[jteneyck]

Gummed veneer tape is water soluble.  You don't need to use any solvent other than water to remove the tape.  It doesn't hurt the glue bond underneath.  The problem is the glue stains the wood even after the tape has been removed.  Of course you can scrape or sand the tape off, too, if the veneer is thick enough to do so.  

FWIW, I've never had any problems with the adhesive residue from 3M's Blue tape after I peel it off.  It does bond pretty fiercely after going through the vacuum bag, but it still peels off the shop sawn veneer I use w/o taking wood fibers with it, though I'd be worried if using commercial veneer.   

John

[Stwood_]

I've had the same problem occasionally.  It's more noticeable on lighter colored woods, but I've had it happen even on walnut.  I've only found two solutions, sand until it's gone or don't use it.  Sanding works for me because I use 1/16" or thicker shop sawn veneer, but it's not a solution for the sliced commercial stuff.  For that stuff about the only thing that has worked for me is to not use it.  Instead, I use 3M's blue tape.  Works fine if the seams fit well.    

Stwood, veneer tape goes on the top, not the bottom.  If you put it on the bottom there won't be any glue between the tape and the veneer and it can bulge and even debond in those areas over time, especially if you ran a piece of tape the length of the seam.

I've always put it on the bottom, using the holed tape. Holes are so close together you have to be careful not to tear it. No glue penetration problems, that's what the holes are for.
And I usually used a vacuum bag back in the day.

[jteneyck]

I've always put it on the bottom, using the holed tape. Holes are so close together you have to be careful not to tear it. No glue penetration problems, that's what the holes are for.
And I usually used a vacuum bag back in the day.

Not recommended but I'm glad it worked for you.  I've done it too, accidentally, and haven't had any failures I know of, but it's not my common practice nor in either of the two books I have on veneering.  The holes in the tape aren't for glue.  They are so you can see the seam when you tape it so it's easier to keep it centered.  

John

[Stwood_]

Not recommended but I'm glad it worked for you.  I've done it too, accidentally, and haven't had any failures I know of, but it's not my common practice nor in either of the two books I have on veneering.  The holes in the tape aren't for glue.  They are so you can see the seam when you tape it so it's easier to keep it centered.  

John

I know what the holes are for John. Thanks, but I'll continue.

[jteneyck]

I know what the holes are for John. Thanks, but I'll continue.

Sorry. I posted that for less experienced folks who might not.

[John Fry]

I'm in the midst of a big veneering project right now.
I always just use blue tape.. Edge joint the pieces, pull them together tight across the joint with small pieces of blue tape spaced down the length and then one long piece down the seam (on the outside show face).. flip it over, then I have neat little channels to lay the glue into, fold the seam shut, another piece of blue tape on the bottom side, let dry.. Peels right up, perfect results.. any glue residue is easily sanded off later.

Doesn't really answer your question though.. I used to use the fancy 3-hole veneer tape and had the same issues, and found a card scraper did the trick.

caveat: I almost always use 1/16" veneers

That's exactly how I did for years with 1/16" shop sawn veneers. With thinner commercial veneers I used 3, or 5 hole tape and removed with a well tuned card scraper.