Hand cut dovetails
#11
I've cut quite a few DT by hand the last 4 or 5 years and still have a problem. It seems like I constantly have an issue with the pins coming up a little short. I've slowed down trying to pay close attention to what I'm doing etc. but still not perfect results. Does someone have a trick I can try?
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#12
Describe your current process. Pins or tails first? How do you mark? Pencil, knife? Are you cutting on the line, to the line, or something different?
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#13
(03-22-2020, 11:58 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: I've cut quite a few DT by hand the last 4 or 5 years and still have a problem. It seems like I constantly have an issue with the pins coming up a little short. I've slowed down trying to pay close attention to what I'm doing etc. but still not perfect results. Does someone have a trick I can try?

When you chop out between the pins, are you getting all the way down to the baseline across the entire surface?  (a very small square can help to assess... or using the edge of your chisel)

And is the board with the tails flat across its width?  (having cup would tend to leave some of the pins recessed)

Or cut them 1/32 long and plane flush?

Matt
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#14
(03-22-2020, 12:43 PM)AHill Wrote: Describe your current process.  Pins or tails first?  How do you mark?  Pencil, knife?  Are you cutting on the line, to the line, or something different?

I go with the wind on if the pins or tails come first. I usually mark with a pencil, which I admit that's part of my problem. I need to start using my marking knife. Just watched a few refresher videos and I think I've identified my problems. Mainly being more accurate when removing the wood on both the pins and the tails.

Jim
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#15
(03-22-2020, 02:03 PM)mdhills Wrote: When you chop out between the pins, are you getting all the way down to the baseline across the entire surface?  (a very small square can help to assess... or using the edge of your chisel)

And is the board with the tails flat across its width?  (having cup would tend to leave some of the pins recessed)

Or cut them 1/32 long and plane flush?

Matt

I always insure the boards are flat and the exact thickness. As mentioned above, I think I just have to be accurate with my cuts and removing wood.

Jim
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#16
Jim, ditch the pencil for utility knife.  Tails first.  Blue tape to mark and cut pins.  I am no expert but this has worked well for me.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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#17
(03-22-2020, 02:38 PM)Bill Holt Wrote: Jim, ditch the pencil for utility knife.  Tails first.  Blue tape to mark and cut pins.  I am no expert but this has worked well for me.

This is the only way I've found success (I use an XActo) and the blue tape trick is hugely helpful.  Additionally, cutting a 1/16" rabbet in the tail board so it will register precisely with the pin board during layout. If I try to "eyeball" the tails to pin board during layout without that little rabbet, I always come up short.  (caveat: I am not an expert!)
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#18
(03-22-2020, 11:58 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: I've cut quite a few DT by hand the last 4 or 5 years and still have a problem. It seems like I constantly have an issue with the pins coming up a little short. I've slowed down trying to pay close attention to what I'm doing etc. but still not perfect results. Does someone have a trick I can try?

Through- or half-blind dovetails?

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#19
(03-22-2020, 11:58 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: I've cut quite a few DT by hand the last 4 or 5 years and still have a problem. It seems like I constantly have an issue with the pins coming up a little short. I've slowed down trying to pay close attention to what I'm doing etc. but still not perfect results. Does someone have a trick I can try?

Thanks folks. And I just realized I failed to mention that these are half blind DT I have trouble with. I'll be sure to utilize these suggestions from everyone. I got away from using the blue tape ( I used to use it on walnut and got away from even that.) never used it on lighter wood, so I guess that speaks for itself with the poor results 
Smirk
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#20
A couple of articles of mine to pass the time ....
Smile

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/H...eTape.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/T...sDead.html

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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