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What type blade should I use on a tablesaw to cut down a 1/4" x 48" x 96" sheet of plexi-Glass into 2 - 46" x 46" pieces? I have a Forrest Hi-AT 80 tooth blade. Is this the correct blade?
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(03-23-2020, 02:42 PM)lift mechanic Wrote: What type blade should I use on a tablesaw to cut down a 1/4" x 48" x 96" sheet of plexi-Glass into 2 - 46" x 46" pieces? I have a Forrest Hi-AT 80 tooth blade. Is this the correct blade?
You have 2" to spare... try a test cut.
I've found most nicer woodworking blades do fine. You have to be very straight with your cut as you don't want the cut to bind and shatter the plexi. Heat is to be avoided also, so nice steady movement.
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Lesser the teeth, the lesser the heat. I've used 24 or 32'sT before.
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That blade will work IF it has enough "side clearance" (set) I've used several combination blade to cut plexi, even a "rip" blade. The quality of the cut surface may vary with the number of teeth.
If the shavings get between the blade and the material it can heat things up real quick. I found out the hard way with a "zero clearance" insert. Ruined a good blade.
Best advice I can give is to NOT try to cut slowly - heat is a big problem. It cuts easily but will shatter if it binds. Make sure you support it well.
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On other thing to help you a lot.
Use some blue or regular masking tape on both sides and then either draw the line or scribe the line and cut it. You will have a lot better chance of it not chipping or cracking. We did it in the sheetmetal shop that way on the bandsaw and it worked and I have used a taplesaw at home with out it cracking.
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Does the packaging tape trick work with a table saw?
When I cut plexi on my scroll saw, I cover both sides of the cut with clear packaging tape. It acts as a lubricant. Makes a smooth cut and the plexi does not heal itself after the cut. Never tried it with a table saw.
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There is a special grind made for that I think it is called alternate top bevel. I have one at home (10") and I can check the designation tonight.
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You can take a scoring cut of about 1/16" inch deep on both sides and then a finish cut. It will reduce the chance of melting the plexi and shattering.
When I tried this, the cut piece snapped off before the final cut, so I just dressed the edge with a metal working file.
I had only two cuts to make, so I am not an expert. As they say, past results are not a predictor of future results. Make a test cut first.
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I've cut a lot of plexi on my table saw. I normally use a 24 or 40 tooth woodworking blade. I've even use a circular saw blade on my TS as well but it can chip a bit more.
I definitely recommend having a second person help or use some tables to support the sheet. A full size sheet of 1/4" is flimsy.
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