You might have sawdust buildup that's preventing full travel of the gears.
Wish we had known about this issue when I was there a couple weeks ago.
I know there are concerns about virus spread, but perhaps I can come back out and look at it sometime?
In the meantime, are you sure that your measurement method is good? Are you using a good, square reference? If you're using a Wixey angle gauge, are you zeroing the reading before taking measurements?
I have the Grizzly G0690 table saw in my shop and recently did a complete tune up which took a little bit of time to get everything as precise as possible but wasn't really difficult. I had bought the saw used and it was set up pretty close but not as spot-on as it could be (I had previously cleaned and lubricated the saw). While your saw may be newer, it appears to be similar in the design and set-up.
The stops can be accessed without removing the table top and they are not too bad to adjust, just check and continue adjusting until you have it dialed in.
I would also recommend aligning the table top if necessary - which is simple enough by loosening the bolts in each corner and moving the top. My top was positioned where it appeared that the previous owner had nicked the insert with the blade a few times and after adjustment the clearance was great with the original insert. I have also made several zero-clearance inserts for both my standard blades and for different dado widths which can be helpful and assist in providing a clean cut with less tear out.
Don't forget to check / adjust the fence to make sure it is true and the same with the miter gauge.
IMPORTANTLY: Do the safe thing and unplug your saw when adjusting. It's always a good thing to start and end with all of your fingers and body parts in place. :-)
If I have to remove the top that will not happen unless someone else does it.
Arlin down load page 65 from the grizzly online manual for your saw. There is an adjusting bolt and a jam nut. Loosen the jam nut first.
Pictures 107/110 show where the bolt and nut are. You do not have to remove the top. Before you adjust the bolt ,look for debris on the bolt head that could be the cause of the problem. How did you check the angle? I use a 6" machinist square but a plastic drafting triangle works just as well.
Try cutting a scrap in half, if the blade is at 90° no gap will show when you place the seam together and flip one side over . If there is a minor discrepancy it will show up as a V when the scrap is flipped.
Other things can cause the cut to be not 90°. The insert may be not flush with the table, large squares or triangles will eliminate this if you first remove the insert.
mike
I think I need to do the whole shebang on the whole saw including the miter, fence, top, blade to guides and well everything including both of the bandsaws. The small G0555 no matter what I do is not cutting square and I even tried the table, guides, blade, and I forgot the other one.
I need to adjust the out feed tables on the planner and check for level on the jointer. Things are just getting past me.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Arlin: what are you utilizing to measure the blade angle? If you are using on of the popular electronic gizmos, is a 1/10 of a degree within its margin of error? I always set mine with a known accurate combination square to the blade body.
(04-10-2020, 12:15 PM)Ray Newman Wrote: Arlin: what are you utilizing to measure the blade angle? If you are using on of the popular electronic gizmos, is a 1/10 of a degree within its margin of error? I always set mine with a known accurate combination square to the blade body.
I use the wixley block. I made sure the block was vertical also with a square.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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