gouge in routed profile
#11
I have done it again !

Making a hard maple table with breadboard ends.  

Making a gentle round over with a portion of a large (1 in radius) bit.  

The bearing was above the table top.  spacing was maintained by the upstream router fence, UNTIL the breadboard end entered the bit opening for the fence.  I realized in advance that there was a risk of that happing, but thought I could hold the top against the downstream portion of the fence.  I was wrong.  I was unable to keep the top in position on the down stream fence.  The top entered the gap, and the bit dug too deep, leaving the gouge.  

So that is the problem, a profile gouge in end grain of hard maple.  

I am thinking that no wood putty product will stick to the end grain.  My thought is to make a couple drill holes to provide anchorage using fiberglass - polyester/styrene, or epoxy.  Possibly pack some router shavings in polymer so that it may be stained. 

Area around the gouge could be protected with masking tape.  

If gouge area is turned vertical, or turned to the top, then the polymer will run out, and down, creating another issue.  

My thought is to put some polymer into the drilled holes, which will run out of the center of the hole but I hope will stick to the wall of the drilled holes.   
Then rest the profile divot in a cove molding while it hardens.  Sand to match the profile.   Done!

Comments?  Suggestions?  

All suggestions and ideas entertained, with thanks.  

tom
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#12
Is there any chance you could just replace the breadboard end? I suspect any repair is just going to look like that: a repair. (Unless this is to be painted, then it might work.)
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#13
(04-17-2020, 05:29 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Is there any chance you could just replace the breadboard end? I suspect any repair is just going to look like that: a repair. (Unless this is to be painted, then it might work.)

Fred,

Not easily.  Furthermore, I am out of material.  With the lockdown, it may be some time b4 I can get some.  

Thanks for the thought though.
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#14
I had that problem in some end grain tearing out on a table base. I applied the final wood stain, let it dry then used clear epoxy and put tape over it to hold it in place. After it cured I sanded it down. Once I clear coated it was not too noticeable but it was also near the floor so further away from the eye.

I have seen good repairs done with burn in sticks but that takes a lot of practice and skill.

Can you slice a little off the breadboard edge and reroute with a zero clearance fence to avoid the bit pulling the piece?
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#15
Can you remove the breadboard end and rip off the defective portion, then put it back on?  Or get rid of the breadboard ends entirely?  Or buy new material and have it delivered.  

John
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#16
Cut both breadboards down to the same dimension, then reprofile. Carefully
Big Grin

g
I've only had one...in dog beers.

"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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#17
The gouge is in the end of the breadboard, isn't it?
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
(04-17-2020, 12:11 PM)fredhargis Wrote: The gouge is in the end of the breadboard, isn't it?

Yup. You're right Fred. Gotta read more carefully before answering.

g
I've only had one...in dog beers.

"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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#19
You’ve done this before?!?
Hard-headed, huh?
Laugh
Make a replacement, profile on a router table, then re-attach.
Don’t take the router to the work. Take the work to the router table.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#20
Can you add a photo?
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
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