Posts: 20,866
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Sioux Falls SD
(04-20-2020, 10:03 AM)Alan S Wrote: Why not just cut a rabbet on the edge of the plywood panel so it fits into the groove? That simply moves the inner surface of the panel so it's not recessed as much from the legs. Unless I misunderstood the question.
I typically rabbet the panel.
WoodNET... the new safespace
Posts: 12,606
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
(04-20-2020, 10:03 AM)Alan S Wrote: Why not just cut a rabbet on the edge of the plywood panel so it fits into the groove? That simply moves the inner surface of the panel so it's not recessed as much from the legs. Unless I misunderstood the question.
Doh! What a simple solution.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 81
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2006
(04-19-2020, 06:39 AM)KC Wrote: After looking at the plan site, I think I'd either make the whole leg(s) bigger to accommodate the thicker panel, or attach something the leg just where the shelf pins go. Or just glue up a solid 1/4 panel.
I had hoped to be able to squeeze a little more thickness on the legs myself but nature being nature the legs had to go down to 1.72" in order to be perfectly straight and not have any of the marks on the wood from the mill.
The post that is the problem is the middle set, as the pin holes face towards the rear of the case the middle post would need some width added to them and i'd have a glue seam visible on the front of the bookcase. I guess that is a downside of modifying plans. Good inputs though.
Posts: 81
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2006
(04-20-2020, 10:03 AM)Alan S Wrote: Why not just cut a rabbet on the edge of the plywood panel so it fits into the groove? That simply moves the inner surface of the panel so it's not recessed as much from the legs. Unless I misunderstood the question.
I may be misunderstanding this post but I'm interpreting what you are writing as rabbeting the plywood so that I have to make a smaller slot in the post. If I understood that correctly that won't gain me the extra width that I need between the edge of the post and the side of the ply on the middle post (the one that is the biggest problem).
Posts: 81
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2006
(04-18-2020, 01:00 PM)Gary G™ Wrote: Why not just resaw hardwood and make panels?
I read this the other day and it made me think a bit. Do to how the sawmill worked a piece, I have a piece of oak that was just under 3/4" and fit the dims of the panel. I am considering doing the technique that I mentioned for the plywood (cut all sides ~3" on all sides and finish the middle w/a hand saw then plane to the 1/4" thickness.
That being said I will have 2 of the necessary 3 panels from that method. I can use ply on the outside pieces and just make one for the inner panel as that addresses the most problematic leg. I'm inclined to consider taking a 5" wide piece that I have leftover and resawing it, then before I plane it down glue it up to make the necessary width. I think that the titebond will hold but I've never tried gluing up such a thin panel. Would a glue joint on a panel so thin be prone to separating / cracking on the glue joint?
Posts: 12,197
Threads: 2
Joined: Nov 1999
Location: Nebraska City
(04-20-2020, 03:24 PM)PittTrack Wrote: I had hoped to be able to squeeze a little more thickness on the legs myself but nature being nature the legs had to go down to 1.72" in order to be perfectly straight and not have any of the marks on the wood from the mill.
The post that is the problem is the middle set, as the pin holes face towards the rear of the case the middle post would need some width added to them and i'd have a glue seam visible on the front of the bookcase. I guess that is a downside of modifying plans. Good inputs though.
How wide is that? I've never had any problems with only pins at the 4 corners as wide as (I think) 40" or so.
