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04-20-2020, 10:21 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-20-2020, 10:25 AM by GeeDub.)
Recessing the slides is a common design. I used it where I needed the look of web frame set drawers but, full extension slides where undermounts wouldn't play well. Note top of pic . . .
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Thanks all. I did end up recessing the slides into a very shallow dado inside the case rather than using the table-saw to shave off a bit of the drawer side. I realized that if I did that, I'd be removing the veneer on the plywood drawer sides, and they'd look awful when the drawer was open. I made a dado jig and used my trim-router inside the case, didn't take too long and you don't even notice unless looking for it.
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(04-20-2020, 01:11 PM)mound Wrote: Thanks all. I did end up recessing the slides into a very shallow dado inside the case rather than using the table-saw to shave off a bit of the drawer side. I realized that if I did that, I'd be removing the veneer on the plywood drawer sides, and they'd look awful when the drawer was open. I made a dado jig and used my trim-router inside the case, didn't take too long and you don't even notice unless looking for it.
Yes, if your slide is up off the bottom of the side.
I always position my slides on the lowest point on the sides. You never see the saw cut there.
Steve
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WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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(04-20-2020, 02:04 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Yes, if your slide is up off the bottom of the side.
I always position my slides on the lowest point on the sides. You never see the saw cut there.
I am going to remember this thread(tip/trick).
Not that I would ever make a drawer too wide.
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Steve
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I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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(04-17-2020, 07:23 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: I set them on the tablesaw and raise the blade the height of the slide.
Set your fence width and run the drawer through and take off a 1/32 on each side. That sets the slide into the drawer side.
That is what I did (on solid lumber). I took equal amounts of both sides. It worked perfectly.
For undersized drawers putting a washer under the slide will generally get the adjustment needed.
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(04-20-2020, 03:10 PM)Cooler Wrote: That is what I did (on solid lumber). I took equal amounts of both sides. It worked perfectly.
For undersized drawers putting a washer under the slide will generally get the adjustment needed.
My undersized drawer fix is to put layers of masking tape under the slide, or a shim of plastic laminate trimmed to match the size of the slide contact area.
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(04-17-2020, 05:52 PM)mound Wrote: I'm making a dresser/shelf unit as a built in for a closet. Simple plywood carcass and plywood drawers on full extension slides. Measured everything out, made the drawer boxes.. Unfortunately, apparently I made the drawers about 1/16" too wide (if even that). I can get the drawer box and both slides to fit inside the opening, but squeezing the slides like that compresses them to the point the drawers become very hard to open.
how to fix? If these were hardwood drawers I'd just plane the sides down a bit to thin it out, but with the plywood, that would look terrible after removing the face veneer.
I'm thinking a very shallow dado (~1/16") either on the inside of the carcass, or on the side of the drawer in which the corresponding half of the drawer slide would sit. It would be easier to cut such a dado on the side of the drawer, but my gut says it has to be on the inside of the case. Thoughts?
+1. I have had to do in the past. I have used the TS when I haven't put on the face yet. Just do both side - to minimize what you have to cut.
John
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