pocket door

[Cooler]

I am going to install a pocket door.  Is there a preferred brand for the sliding track hardware?

[fixtureman]

Don't know about the best hardware but remember to use short drywall screws on that section.

[Robert Adams]

The best one I have used is from Johnson hardware. The 2000 series is very well made. Pocket doors are typically a royal PITA in all aspects and doing them somewhat satisfactory is expensive short of an all metal motorized assembly...

[MstrCarpenter]

The best one I have used is from Johnson hardware. The 2000 series is very well made. Pocket doors are typically a royal PITA in all aspects and doing them somewhat satisfactory is expensive short of an all metal motorized assembly...

You've already got good advice. I prefer the Johnson kit as well.  1-1/4" drywall screws are just long enough to put racing stripes on the door; and yes, It was the hard way. Don't forget to install the bumper before hanging the wall board. (Yes again.) Also if your door is pre-bored, there is latching/locking hardware that fits right in the holes and mortise.

[Cooler]

Thanks,

I saw Johnson hardware advertised on line.  I will go for that.

[Snipe Hunter]

  Johnson... Depot and Lowes used to stock them.... maybe still do?

[Cooler]

Update.

This was all about my earlier error.  My bathroom was divided with a pocket door that had one half  of the bathroom with a sink and a toilet, and the other part with a sink and a shower, but no toilet. 

I measured carefully and there was room for a toilet in the shower side.  So I walled up the door,  added board and batten wainscotting, and painted both sides of the wall. 

When I started drilling for the toilet I discovered that a 3" x 8" floor joist was in the way of the waste outlet.  Moving the toilet 6" either way was not possible and cutting the joist would require re-wiring and re-plumbing and adding another joist.  Too much work.  Big headache and all my own fault.

I cut open the original opening and the track was still in place.  I had used long drywall screws so I had to cut up the door to remove it.  But the track is in place and working fine.  I have to trim out the opening and install a new door.  The track works fine so no track purchase, but a lot of work ahead of me.  I bought the door.  Trimming out is going to be a headache because I have to cut the wainscotting and base trim accurately.  After that it is just paint and hanging the new door.

Thanks for the input.

Best Regards (and stay healthy),

Cooler

[rwe2156]

If the floors are wood, take care when anchoring the bottom rails into the floor or you may get a squeak (DAMHIKT).

[Cooler]

If the floors are wood, take care when anchoring the bottom rails into the floor or you may get a squeak (DAMHIKT).

This door is hanging from the upper rail.  Only the guides touch the lower portion of the door which is suspended in air.

[WoodCzech]

You've already got good advice. I prefer the Johnson kit as well.  1-1/4" drywall screws are just long enough to put racing stripes on the door; and yes, It was the hard way. Don't forget to install the bumper before hanging the wall board. (Yes again.) Also if your door is pre-bored, there is latching/locking hardware that fits right in the holes and mortise.

The Johnson kit I got had the "studs" clad in steel on 3 side so a screw should never get inside the cavity as long as it doesn't miss the stud.  Also, the plastic guides for the bottom stick out in an ugly way if installed per instructions.  I ended up cutting slots in the jamb pieces and installing the guides so they are hidden.  Would have been a lot easier to do before the jambs were nailed on.  Just something to think about.