I had to replace a part on the bango

[Arlin Eastman]

It is the screw thingie that tightens the tool rest so it will not move.  I could not believe how chincy PM make the handle which was pot aluminium and the rest was steel so it had to strip sometime and I replaced it with this.

   

   


It is 4" and got it on Amazon for $10

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M7...UTF8&psc=1

It sure works great and just a turn and bam done.  Only thing is I lose about 1/2" of space on the side of the banjo from the tailstock.

I should add the hole is 3/8" and a 3/8" bolt fits very nicely with a nut to lock it in.

[EightFingers]

Looks like it’s $25.27 for me.....

How’d you get it for ten bucks?

[AHill]

You realize your nice wheel is also cast aluminum, don't you? I hope it lasts longer than the PM original.

[Arlin Eastman]

2 Spoked Polished Aluminum Dished Hand Wheel with Handle, 4" Diameter, 3/8" Hole Diameter, (Pack of 1)
Sold by: Amazon.com Services LLC
Return eligible through Jul 1, 2020

$10.99


Hmmm I copied this off of what I paid for it and wow a week later it went way up.

Allan

The wheel is not the same as the banjo lock https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CUEBA...gIdYfD_BwE

Like the black one in the photo.   I know some of them must be all steel but mine was not and the gears stripped inside.

With this new on nothing can strip and just a turn of the handle instead of ratcheting it around is a pain to in trying to get to the right place for shafts that are just a tad smaller. 

The main one that came with the PM and the three I got from Robust and Robo sent me two of his and all three are just a tad different.
Lyle Jamieson gave me his tool rest that has the nut on it and I love that one but the top does take maintenance the PM.  Both Robo Hippys and Robust have the hardened tops.

[EightFingers]

Is there a flat milled on that threaded post so the threads aren’t galled by the locking wheel?

I used to think I wanted a threaded post to micro adjust the tool rest, but then I decided it would slow me down too much.

[Arlin Eastman]

Is there a flat milled on that threaded post so the threads aren’t galled by the locking wheel?

I used to think I wanted a threaded post to micro adjust the tool rest, but then I decided it would slow me down too much.

????  I do not know what you mean.

All I ordered was the wheel and the handle which had the 3/8" hole in it.  I added the 3/8" nut and the bolt.

[iclark]

????  I do not know what you mean.

All I ordered was the wheel and the handle which had the 3/8" hole in it.  I added the 3/8" nut and the bolt.

Eightfingers is asking about the toolrest post in your pic that is threaded and has a nut on it.

He is suggesting that you now have a large enough crank handle that you could damage the threads on that toolrest post if you really tighten your new handle.

I assuming that the nut on the toolrest post is so that you can quickly set the rest to a particular height. I am not sure how well a single nut will maintain that height over time (as opposed to 2 nuts locked into position).

[Arlin Eastman]

Eightfingers is asking about the toolrest post in your pic that is threaded and has a nut on it.

He is suggesting that you now have a large enough crank handle that you could damage the threads on that toolrest post if you really tighten your new handle.

I assuming that the nut on the toolrest post is so that you can quickly set the rest to a particular height. I am not sure how well a single nut will maintain that height over time  (as opposed to 2 nuts locked into position).

Thanks Ivan

That tool rest is what Lyle Jamieson gave me.  It is 8" and the shaft is threaded and had the nut so anyone can have the same height time after time. What I really like about it is that it will not go past the point of the nut when you unlock it or slip done to far. Just a turn of two of the screw and you are ready to go again.

No the nut does not damage the threads unless I guess it is tightened to much but that would be a lot of muscle to do that I am thinking.  I have tightened it quite a bit before and seen a indent on the threads but it has not caused any damage and the nut still goes up and down the shaft nicely.

I have seen a guy who drilled a piece of wood as a spacer for the tool rest and maybe two would work since for scrappers you need it a bit higher then normal

[iclark]

Thanks Ivan

That tool rest is what Lyle Jamieson gave me.  It is 8" and the shaft is threaded and had the nut so anyone can have the same height time after time.  What I really like about it is that it will not go past the point of the nut when you unlock it or slip done to far.  Just a turn of two of the screw and you are ready to go again.

No the nut does not damage the threads unless I guess it is tightened to much but that would be a lot of muscle to do that I am thinking.  I have tightened it quite a bit before and seen a indent on the threads but it has not caused any damage and the nut still goes up and down the shaft nicely.

I have seen a guy who drilled a piece of wood as a spacer for the tool rest and maybe two would work since for scrappers you need it a bit higher then normal

Sounds good. When I got my Jet 1642, it had been a classroom lathe and I had to do some repair to the spindle thread. I am not sure if someone tried to crush it with a grub screw or really put a lot of force into unscrewing a chuck that they thought was stuck (but the grub screw was still locked down).

It did make me sensitive to threads getting dented on machine tools.

I never noticed that Lyle uses threaded toolrest posts. I have a similar toolrest stop on some of my Shopsmith toolrests. I never bothered to do it on any of my other lathes when the rest of the family was still here. There was so much difference in height between me and my sister that the toolrest post stops just were not worth the effort.

[EightFingers]

iclark, that’s what i was asking..

I think in place of a nut, i would use a piece of pvc, cut to whatever length needed and slipped over to tool rest post.