Removing Large Bathroom Mirror
#11
I am remodeling the bathroom, which has large mirror 4' X 5.5 ' 
I have watched few you tube videos on how to remove the mirror.
I am going to attempt to remove the mirror,
Before I do that any advise ?

Thanks
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#12
Here's how I did two large-ish mirrors during a master bath rehab five years ago.

The mirrors were not as large as yours, but I would still do them the same way.

The mirrors were stuck to the drywall with adhesive; I assume yours are done the same.

First, I coated every last bit of the mirrors with duct tape:

   

I then removed the vanity cabinets shown in the picture.

Then my helper and I began sliding a thin, flat metal bar behind the mirror, getting the adhesive to release, one attachment point at a time.  We went very slowly.  Heavy gloves and safety glasses are critical to this operation.

It took about 20-30 minutes of work on each mirror to get them to release, but we did it without any breakage.
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#13
I've removed small, single strength mirrors that were glued on using a heat gun to soften the glue.   I doubt you will be able to do so on  such a large mirror. 

My only suggestion is that contact paper will apply faster and probably cheaper than duct tape.  I don't know if there is any safety difference in choosing one over the other.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#14
Ok, obvious question, are you reusing the mirror? If not, can you just break it up into smaller pieces ? Also, forget the seven years bad luck, it's a myth. 
Wink
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#15
Good advice above, but one thing NOT mentioned.

A mirror that size will be VERY HEAVY!

Do not drop it on the countertop (assuming you are not removing or replacing it).  It will most certainly damage the top - and chip the mirror.

Additionally . . . do not drop it on your fingers.  It will hurt like all get out.
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#16
I removed a mirror slightly larger than that. It would have been very difficult to handle by myself. I duct taped a grid onto the mirror and put a sheet down then started breaking the mirror up. the duct tape mostly held the broken pieces together until I could cut the tape and safely put the pieces into a trash can

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#17
I had a huge mirror to remove, almost 10ft long. I called a glass company. They has two guys with suction cup handles, two for each guy. First one just started yanking until glue gave way. Mirror flexed quite a bit and did not break. After it was down they cut it in 2 pie es to take out of house.

Cost me $125 but I figured it was not a one man job.

I finally tried it myself on a 5 ft mirror and it came down fine. It was heavy but I was able to manage. Wear goggles, have long sleeves and leather gloves just in case. I also drove cedar shims down the top of the mirror to pop the glue which helped when I started pulling.
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#18
All great advice. Pick your best option.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#19
Most smaller mirrors are single strength glass is now 3/32" and double strength glass is currently 1/8" thick.

It used to be 0.100" and 0.200" thick and very old glass was 0.125" and 0.250" thick. 

In any case if you can salvage some of this glass in reasonable size it will lay flatter and make a better mirror than the current thin glass mirrors. 

The mirror I removed from my bathroom which was built in 1953 measured 0.200" thick.  Better glass manufacturing has lead to the thinner glass.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#20
(06-29-2020, 12:17 PM)WxMan Wrote: First, I coated every last bit of the mirrors with duct tape:

That's very interesting.  My oldest wants to put large, thin mirrors up in his garage, which is his home gym.  But he's concerned about his small kids breaking a mirror and having broken glass come down.  I suggested putting them on the wall with mastic, using a notched trowel, but another option would be to use mastic and course fabric for a backing.  


But maybe tape would be just as effective.  I'll have to think about that one.  But your process has given me an idea.  
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Tom

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