Bosch glide 12” curved cut???

[JDuke]

I’ve had the 12” Bosch glide saw for about a year now, and overall I like it.

Recently it has become grossly inaccurate

On a narrow work piece it cuts a good 90 degree but at the back of the cut, it looks like the blade is pulling to the right just at the bottom and back of the cut.

On a cut that uses the full slide, there is a curve almost like the blade is flexing to the left part of the way through the cut then getting back on correct line at back.

I’ve switched blades and put new blade washers on.

Still same

Any ideas

[iclark]

Is there an alignment process for the saw blade/spindle vs the top?

Edit: My apologies. Based on the name, I assumed that this was a sliding table saw. Not that I have googled it, I know that it is an articulated-arm alternative to a sliding compound miter saw.

As part of that googling, I found a review on the Bosch site talking about similar problems 5 yrs ago. The response was a suggestion to call tech support.

It sounds like at least one of the joints in the arm has developed some slop.

[greenacres2]

What blade are you using, and how hard has the blade been worked? Is it clean of pitch? Not that I’ll have an answer, but that may help to know.
Good luck!
Earl

[JDuke]

What blade are you using, and how hard has the blade been worked?  Is it clean of pitch?  Not that I’ll have an answer, but that may help to know.
Good luck!
Earl

I am currently using a makita a-93712 which is a thin kerf blade, it’s brand new replacing same blade that was doing the same thing.

I have ordered a regular kerf blade, and will see if that makes a difference.

Then I’ll call Bosch and see what they have to say.

Just thought somebody here may have gone through this already.

[JDuke]

I am currently using a makita a-93712 which is a thin kerf blade, it’s brand new replacing same blade that was doing the same thing.

I have ordered a regular kerf blade, and will see if that makes a difference.

Then I’ll call Bosch and see what they have to say.

Just thought somebody here may have gone through this already.

Tried a regular kerf 80 tooth blade, and am still getting a curved cut

Only thing I can figure is the arbor is warped

[cams2705]

I'm thinking outside the box on this response ... is there a possibility of over-torqueing the arbor bolt and creating a dished blade which would cause a curved cut (at least in my mind is would)?

[jteneyck]

If you've changed blades and still have the same problem then the blade isn't the source.  You said it cut square at zero extension so that's another reason to eliminate the blade as the source of the problem.  Most likely, something in the knuckles of the arms is worn and causes the blade to move laterally at the same point during it's stroke.  You should be able to prove it if you put a dial gage on the blade, projecting horizontally, and measure the distance against a straight edge clamped 90° to the back fence as you move the blade over it's horizontal range of motion.  Set the straight edge so that you have the same reading on the dial gage at zero and maximum extension.  Once you have it adjusted correctly reset the dial gage to zero.  Now observe the dial gage as you move the carriage front to back.  Any deviation from zero means the carriage is moving left or right.  If the carriage is the problem you should see the dial gage move in the same direction as the curved cuts.  Doing this will give you some additional info. to provide to tech. support when you talk with them.  

John

[JDuke]

It may be the very slight pressure as I feed the saw through the cut, as I have tried a climb cut, and it’s much closer to square.

Looks like I’m going to have to be very careful with the miter saw, and use the tablesaw if I want more accuracy.

Duke

[iclark]

It may be the very slight pressure as I feed the saw through the cut, as I have tried a climb cut, and it’s much closer to square.

Looks like I’m going to have to be very careful with the miter saw, and use the tablesaw if I want more accuracy.

Duke

It really sounds like one of the bearings in one of the knuckles is either sticking or has worn enough to have slop in it.

If you cannot do the dial gauge test suggested above, then it might be informative to turn the saw off when it is doing the curve portion of the cut (probably want to plug the saw into a power strip and have someone else turn the strip off when you tell them to).

With the blade sitting in the curved cut, look at what portion(s) of the arm are out of true.

I doubt that a worn arm joint will fail during a cut, but why risk it?