Hand Cut DT Question
#9
Just wondering how you cut out the pins and tales. After using my DT saw with the pieces clamped in the face vise on my workbench I place the parts onto the bench with MDF under them so not to dig into the bench and clamp it to the bench.

What technique do you folks use to cut the pins & tails?

Jim
Jim
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#10
I was fortunate to have studied under Paul Sellars many years ago, when he still did workshops in New York. I learned other methods before taking his month-long class, and can honestly say I've followed his method ever since. He has a multi-part technique video available for free on You Tube here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wkw39o_3MQ

I cut the tails first, clean them with a chisel, trace to the pin board, and carefully pare to fit. I use a slight udercut leading edge to start, and work in minute adjustments so I don't overcut anything. Using a sounding technique, I can tell which pin is still too tight.
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#11
There are many techniques, some like to cut the tails first, others the pin,  some do a rebate or shoulder first, often with a Stanley 140, others like the blue tape method.  https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/285...k-is-dead/  While some are not a fan of Rob Cosman,  I would guess he has taught his methods to about as many students as the others, and while I don't use his layout method, because it can end up so uniform that it looks machine cut,  I do like some of his other processes.  I haven't watched this video, but I did see him do a presentation at a local woodcraft, and he lays out all the steps pretty thoroughly  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIkwZFBbPHo   One of the things I picked up was that for the first cuts -  either tails or pins,  how accurately you cut to the line is not all that important.  For the mating pieces, it is all about cutting precisely to the line, and that just takes practice.
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#12
Spend some time on Derek's site: InTheWoodShop.com. It will be well worth your time.
Thanks,  Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#13
I'm a pencil guy. I flatten one side of the lead.

Pin/tails or tails/pins I cut them both ways.  Usually pins first (I learned from Frank Klausz) but I do tails first on 1/2 blinds.

A lot depends on the application, but I am so over trying to emulate Mr. Cosman - not above my skill level, just a bit too anal for me!!

Dovetails are all about sawing, I recommend beginners concentrate on saw skills, not layout.
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#14
(08-18-2020, 09:10 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Dovetails are all about sawing, I recommend beginners concentrate on saw skills, not layout.

Nor fancy tools (a $100 hand saw and a $20 Narex are just as good as a $350 DT saw or a $200 Japanese chisel).

Are you good at sawing square and straight/plumb? If not, work on those first. In practice, use fir or spruce, softwood that's more forgiving as you should aim for tight when you start. Economical lumber to practice.

Too bad we're in a pandemic. The best way to learn how to cut dovetails is to take a class.

Simon
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#15
I’ve also been on a painstakingly slow journey to learn hand cut DT’s. One tip I just discovered that’s made a difference is to use one of these:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/too...em=05N7701

I realized I wasn’t making perpendicular cuts when cutting the pins. Using this mini-square I can hold the wood with my left hand, lock the square against the saw with my index finger, and make the cut holding the saw against the square with my right hand. Here’s a pic with everything in place minus my hands:

The Veritas gizmo is not essential since a well-cut piece of wood could also do the trick, but at $8.50 this has worked great for me. Hope this helps-

Dave in Denver


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#16
Guides are OK to help build muscle memory, but if you want the feel of satisfaction knowing you did it all of your own skill, then eventually you want to get rid of the training wheels
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