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(08-26-2020, 06:34 PM)handi Wrote: Free video, free measured drawings, a design I worked up using MicroJig clamps and hardware.
https://www.woodcademy.com/skillbuilding...-tenon-jig
No way in heck I would use any tenon jig that didn't ride on the fence!
I made a version of Steve Latta's. Works very well.
But, I rarely use it. I invested in a Dado King and do most all my tenons that way.
I think I get much more consistent results. Dialing in the depth is much more accurate raising the blade than moving the fence.
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(09-03-2020, 08:55 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: No way in heck I would use any tenon jig that didn't ride on the fence!
Almost every commercial one I've ever seen uses the miter slots, and they work just fine.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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09-03-2020, 06:07 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-03-2020, 06:08 PM by handi.)
(09-03-2020, 08:55 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: No way in heck I would use any tenon jig that didn't ride on the fence!
I made a version of Steve Latta's. Works very well.
But, I rarely use it. I invested in a Dado King and do most all my tenons that way.
I think I get much more consistent results. Dialing in the depth is much more accurate raising the blade than moving the fence.
Really, I see no difference from a safety aspect, which I assume is your objection.
I can argue operational advantages/disadvantages of either method, but as long as the jig is guided, I see no safety issue.
I am interested in your thoughts.
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Maybe his issue is that a lot of woodworkers skew the back of their fence slightly away from the blade to prevent pinching.
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(09-04-2020, 07:11 AM)stav Wrote: Maybe his issue is that a lot of woodworkers skew the back of their fence slightly away from the blade to prevent pinching.
First, if that is the case, his tenons will be cut at the same angle if he uses the fence.
Second, setting the rip fence at an angle is just begging for a kickback to occur.
When the fence is not parallel to the blade, the wood MUST pass the blade at an angle, this means that one side of the kerf or the other (depending on which way the angle goes) will end up rubbing against the rear teeth of the blade as they rise up out of the table. You can easily diagnose which way a fence is not parallel by which side of the kerf has tool marks and burning. If one of those teeth catch, things go bad quickly.
Third, you simply cannot use a riving knife or Splitter if you set your rip fence at an angle, they are designed to be in a straight line, directly behind the blade.
Please do not set your fence at an angle. It does not “prevent binding”. If the two are dead parallel, the will be no binding.
