Posts: 7,008
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Perth, Australia
I am on my second 1” CT Woodmaster. The previous one lasted about 3 years having re-sawn a lot of hard hard wood. I would sharpen it myself. Not hard to do. It gave up the ghost after about 5 sharpenings.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Posts: 12,880
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(08-30-2020, 07:01 PM)Derek Cohen Wrote: I am on my second 1” CT Woodmaster. The previous one lasted about 3 years having re-sawn a lot of hard hard wood. I would sharpen it myself. Not hard to do. It gave up the ghost after about 5 sharpenings.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek, how did you go about sharpening your CT?
John
Posts: 7,008
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Perth, Australia
John, I use a Dremel with a diamond wheel. The latter are very cheap and available on eBay.
All you need do is touch the back of the blade to remove the wear. I do this freehand. A blade for my Hammer N4400 (18”) takes about 30 minutes.
There are a number of videos on YouTube illustrating this process.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Posts: 12,880
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(08-31-2020, 12:39 PM)Derek Cohen Wrote: John, I use a Dremel with a diamond wheel. The latter are very cheap and available on eBay.
All you need do is touch the back of the blade to remove the wear. I do this freehand. A blade for my Hammer N4400 (18”) takes about 30 minutes.
There are a number of videos on YouTube illustrating this process.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Thanks Derek.
John
Posts: 15,441
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: Northeastern MA
(08-31-2020, 12:39 PM)Derek Cohen Wrote: John, I use a Dremel with a diamond wheel. The latter are very cheap and available on eBay.
All you need do is touch the back of the blade to remove the wear. I do this freehand. A blade for my Hammer N4400 (18”) takes about 30 minutes.
There are a number of videos on YouTube illustrating this process.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Interesting. I have done this on cheap blades I use for cutting dirty turning blanks... it's quick and easy and I was never too picky on blades that would be significantly dulled after just a few minutes of use. If my resaw king ever gets dull, I'll try this before sending it out for sharpening.
You are frequently puzzled by things you tell us you fully understand. - Bob10 to EH 9/22/16
Too much has been made out of my mostly idle comments - Cletus 12/9/15
You sound like one of those survivalist, hoarder, tin foil hat, militia, clinger, wackjobs. - Fear Monger 1/30/13
Posts: 2,230
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2007
Thanks for all the replies. I think I’ve decided to go with resaw king since many places that carry it offer free shipping which offsets much of the savings from the wood master.
My saw says the max width is 1-1/4” and the guy from laguna I emailed suggested that as well but I notice many here go with 1”. Is there any reason I shouldn’t go with the 1 1/4”. As I understand it larger width equals better resaw results. Again I have a laguna LT 16HD with 4.5HP motor.
Posts: 12,880
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(09-03-2020, 09:34 AM)jussi Wrote: Thanks for all the replies. I think I’ve decided to go with resaw king since many places that carry it offer free shipping which offsets much of the savings from the wood master.
My saw says the max width is 1-1/4” and the guy from laguna I emailed suggested that as well but I notice many here go with 1”. Is there any reason I shouldn’t go with the 1 1/4”. As I understand it larger width equals better resaw results. Again I have a laguna LT 16HD with 4.5HP motor.
I would stick with the 1" blade. It will do everything you want and your saw will likely be able to apply 25 ksi tension to it. It might not be able to with a 1-1/4" blade. If you are set on the 1-1/4" blade I would verify it can tension a blade that wide before spending the money. But again, the 1" blade will do anything you want.
John
Posts: 2,230
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2007
09-03-2020, 09:18 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-03-2020, 09:20 PM by jussi.)
(09-03-2020, 08:56 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I would stick with the 1" blade. It will do everything you want and your saw will likely be able to apply 25 ksi tension to it. It might not be able to with a 1-1/4" blade. If you are set on the 1-1/4" blade I would verify it can tension a blade that wide before spending the money. But again, the 1" blade will do anything you want.
John
Thanks John. I'll order the 1".
Any recommendations on tension gauge. Alot of them are pretty pricey and I'm not looking to spend a few hundred on one.
Posts: 6,179
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2002
Location: Bothell, WA
You don't need a tension gauge. All you need is a set of calipers; digital or dial. Measure the strain rate and you can convert to stress based on Young's Modulus.
I used this method to correlate the gauge on my MM16 and it's pretty close. I use 1-1/4 Lenox Woodmaster C carbon blades and it will tension them easily to 25 ksi.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
Posts: 86
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2016
agree with the 1" blade vs the 1.25. i use an iturra tension gauge to set a 1" resaw king to 29k psi on my mm16 without a problem -
jerry