Delta BS Guides

[Laid-Back]

So I got a deal on a Delta 28-275 states made in really good condition. I plain on using it for light re sawing (3-4in) and being how a set of Carter guides are out of the budget zone was wondering if a set of Olson Cool Blocks are worth the difference over the metal ones that came with it.

[jteneyck]

So I got a deal on a Delta 28-275 states made in really good condition. I plain on using it for light re sawing (3-4in) and being how a set of Carter guides are out of the budget zone was wondering if a set of Olson Cool Blocks are worth the difference over the metal ones that came with it.

The advantage of cool blocks is that you don't have to worry if they get a little too far forward; they won't ruin the blade like metal ones will.  And with narrow blades I just bury the blade in the blocks. But other than that they are no better than the stock metal guides.  FWIW, the guides don't play much role when resawing.  The keys are a sharp blade that cuts straight, as much tension as the saw will allow (which isn't very high on a 14" Delta), a tall fence set parallel with the blade, and feather boards to keep the stock pressed against the fence.  

You should have no trouble with 3 - 4 inch stock.  I've resawn quite a lot of 10" wide stock on mine with a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade.  

John

[Wizard of Oz]

If money is tight, you could make some from hard wood.
Oz

[KyleD]

I have the same delta saw as you only I added a riser and 2 hp motor maybe 15 years ago to it. I tried using hardwood blocks but they did not hold up well. I tried red oak then white oak and finally bubinga. Then i bought a set of cool blocks. They have held up well. I have reground them square many times after they get chewed up on the end. I like to crowd the teeth a little to much but it works well for me. They are starting to get a little short and when I can't clamp them properly i plan to get a new pair for the next ten years.

As already mentioned on this thread a resew blade is easy to support as it has plenty of flat band to guide on. It is the small blades that are hard on guide blocks. I like to make bandsaw boxes and use a 3/16 10 tip blade. that blade is hard on guide blocks as the only way to support it is to crowd the teeth.

[Alan S]

For resawing, as long as you set the thrust bearing properly to keep the teeth out of the blocks, steel will work fine and not wear out.

If you were also cutting tight curves with narrow blades, a different sort of guide block might help.

[MichaelMouse]

For resawing, as long as you set the thrust bearing properly to keep the teeth out of the blocks, steel will work fine and not wear out.

If you were also cutting tight curves with narrow blades, a different sort of guide block might help.

Got ceramics for wet wood as a turner and have come to love 'em on blades 1/4" and above.  scrolling stuff still gets phenolic.  Real advantage is you don't fear if you have the blade touch the thrust "bearings" to control any blade. Not cheap, just worth it. 

https://spaceageceramics.com/#:~:text=Mo...20rollers.

[handi]

So I got a deal on a Delta 28-275 states made in really good condition. I plain on using it for light re sawing (3-4in) and being how a set of Carter guides are out of the budget zone was wondering if a set of Olson Cool Blocks are worth the difference over the metal ones that came with it.

Just outfitted my Delta 14” bandsaw with cool blocks. They work great, and are far easier to adjust than the metal guides.

I also bought new thrust bearings. Measured the old ones, found 10 in a package for short money. They out to last as long as I will.

[Maple Leaf]

I'm with MichaelMouse. I've used every 14" guide variant going back a long time. I've used the same set of ceramics for close to twenty years, and I like them better than any of the others. I think I got mine from Louis Ittura. He's my go-to guy for bandsaws and blades.

dp

[jussi]

Has anyone used both ceramics and coolblocks? If so, what is the difference in performance?

[Alan S]

Has anyone used both ceramics and coolblocks?  If so, what is the difference in performance?

While I have not used the ceramic guides, I can tell you about differences.

Cool blocks are low friction and soft, so they can be placed in contact with the sides of the blade and if hit by the teeth they will give without dulling the blade.  This allows you to embed small blades in the blocks for best support, but of course in that case the blocks take some damage.  Waxed hardwood works in a similar manner, with lignum vitae similar in durability to cool blocks and hard maple lower.  These are relatively quiet as well.

Ceramic guides are low friction and very hard so they wear very well, perhaps better than anything else.  Their low friction allows them to be placed very close, but I would expect that a poor weld that made a thick spot in the blade would be more of a problem, and running the teeth into the blocks would likely ruin the blade.  With these and other hard blocks you just need to be careful in setting block and thrust bearing position so you don't screw up the teeth.