Consistent diameters...
#11
I just bought a lathe. I've always wanted to get into turning, so I bought a "starter" lathe (WEN) and "starter" tools (PSI HSS).

I haven't done much. I turned a small square of padauk into a random spindle (just playing with the tools) and a few sections of pine log into cylinders so I could make coasters. Both of these were for practice.

Today, I tried to make a baseball bat. I play baseball, and I figured it would be a fun project. I used the roughing gouge (not very well, perhaps because it's not a great tool - it worked better when I sharpened it - and perhaps because I don't have good technique), a round scraper (which I also used for material removal), some sanding sponges, and sanding blocks. For a first project, it turned out OK I think. It's still in there so I can work with it if I want.

I am assuming that lots of practice will help with consistent diameters, and I am also assuming that proper expertise with a skew chisel can help with this. I tried a little bit after I took this, and it seemed to work OK. Again, I don't have great tools, but it seemed like with better technique I would not have as much trouble. The billet diameter was more or less unchanged for the barrel and the taper was OK, but I wanted to make sure the grip was pretty even. This is a lot more challenging than it looks (welcome to turning, I suppose), but I was wondering if there were any tricks to doing this. I can envision a jig that holds a tool at a consistent distance from the piece, ensuring a constant diameter, but I don't know how to translate that to reality (nor am I sure it's needed).

[Image: 20200910-214339.jpg]
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#12
Welcome to the vortex.
Smile 

You did well.

If you are serious about the jig question, then you might want to check out the Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator. It is one of the simplest approaches that I have seen and can be implemented as a DIY tool.

As you noticed, the spindle roughing gouge works much better when it is sharp. That holds true with all of the gouges and especially for the skew.

One trick in making specific spindle shapes is to use the parting tool and outside calipers to set diameters at specific locations on the spindle. It essentially makes the whole spindle a 3D story-stick. Then you can use the tools of your choice to connect the dots.

If you use the outside caliper to size the cut while the lathe is running, be really careful that your sleeves are not baggy at all and that you take off your watch. Rounding the tips of the caliper is often recommended for this use and it definitely helps when you are starting.

For long, straight sections, you can wrap sandpaper around a dowel to take out bumps in that section. Some consider it a cheat, but it is really helpful when making carver's mallets or traditional rolling pins.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#13
I don't know a thing about turning but that looks pretty good to me?
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#14
Line up the toolrest parallel to the lathe bed. My left hand pulls the tool down onto the rest and the knuckles ride along the rest as a depth stop. Move your body, not your arms. Long tool handles will help you lock the tool to your body.
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#15
(09-10-2020, 10:14 PM)iclark Wrote: Welcome to the vortex.
Smile 

You did well.

If you are serious about the jig question, then you might want to check out the Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator. It is one of the simplest approaches that I have seen and can be implemented as a DIY tool.

As you noticed, the spindle roughing gouge works much better when it is sharp. That holds true with all of the gouges and especially for the skew.

One trick in making specific spindle shapes is to use the parting tool and outside calipers to set diameters at specific locations on the spindle. It essentially makes the whole spindle a 3D story-stick. Then you can use the tools of your choice to connect the dots.

If you use the outside caliper to size the cut while the lathe is running, be really careful that your sleeves are not baggy at all and that you take off your watch. Rounding the tips of the caliper is often recommended for this use and it definitely helps when you are starting.

For long, straight sections, you can wrap sandpaper around a dowel to take out bumps in that section. Some consider it a cheat, but it is really helpful when making carver's mallets or traditional rolling pins.

Well, the duplicator sent me down a rabbit hole. The ShopSmith is cool, at least when it's time to consider upgrading to a considerably better lathe. Rockler makes one too that seems to be more of a universal mount (and would probably fit mine) though it isn't very well reviewed. It does look like something that could be reasonably DIY, and while a bat is technically a spindle that is probably overkill. It would definitely work. When I said jig I was thinking more along the lines of something that simply aligns te the tool (like a gravity rest) and limits how far it can go. In the case of a skew chisel, it would also hold it at the correct angle. Short of using the handle, there isn't a good way to implement a depth stop on a chisel or gouge, though.

I did buy a carbide rougher, as it seems that turning something hard (like maple) or something with bark very quickly dulls steel. I am very, very, very glad with the helical planer head I have and apparently carbide roughers are considerably better. Wasn't a huge investment.

I have jaw calipers that I use for archery that I used to check measurements, and I used a marker to indicate where the taper starts, where it ends, where the knob starts and ends, and so on. I basically used an older bat as a story stick, though the one I made is a bit longer and with a thicker handle (probably why the broken and now repaired commercial bat I used as a model broke in the first place). At some point I will probably get "real" calipers and learn to use them properly. I never wear my watch or long sleeves in the shop so I'm not worried about any of that.

The dowel is a better idea. I stapled some sandpaper to a piece of scrap 1x2 and used that, which is a similar idea. It did, however, seem to make pretty quick work of the sandpaper while also not removing a whole lot of material. I guess that's good, but I wouldn't mind if it were a bit more aggressive.
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#16
Sorry about the rabbit hole. Try this link
http://shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.co...cator.html
to see what I meant.

The concept is that you attach a smooth flat surface to the lathe bed. You then set up a tool holder that slides around on the flat surface with a point sticking out near the table that traces along a template that you clamp to that surface. (SS uses some metal uni-strut or 80/20 extrusions to mount the template above the lathe spindle, but clamping the template to the surface works as long as there is enough clearance for your work piece). The tool uses a carbide cutter at the same height as the spindle center to remove wood. Ideally, the shape of the tip that is tracing the template and the shape of the carbide cutter should be the same. Shopsmith uses plastic followers made to be the same shape as the carbides. They do need to be aligned vertically directly over one another.

As I said, DIY versions can be made if you are into making your own tools.

I have several Shopsmiths and they are good tools, but the older ones that you can find used are not what you want to get as a lathe upgrade. Until they converted to using the DVR motor, the variable speed was achieved with a Reeve's drive (variable-width pulleys) and have scheduled maintenance on the internal mechanisms every 25hr.

If you can de-bark most of your wood, even the carbide tips will last longer. I once wore out all 4 sides of a carbide cutter before I finished roughing out the bark side of a 10" bowl. It was not a wood that was known for a lot of silicates in the bark or wood, either. I con't think that I ever did finish that bowl. It is hiding in some dark corner of the shop.

Outside calipers turn up moderately often in SnS. 6" and 8" are good sizes to start with. If you do a lot of spindles (and are like me), you will likely wind up with enough calipers to not have to change their settings while you are turning a particular design. I was doing a lot of snowman Christmas tree ornaments for a while and there is a box in the shop with the design sketch and calipers set for the bottom ball, the middle ball, and the head/hat diameters).

Once you start using a chuck, you may find that you like using straight dividers for marking the size of the tenon or mortise for the chuck grip.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#17
(09-10-2020, 08:52 PM)FS7 Wrote: I am assuming that lots of practice will help with consistent diameters, and I am also assuming that proper expertise with a skew chisel can help with this. I tried a little bit after I took this, and it seemed to work OK. Again, I don't have great tools, but it seemed like with better technique I would not have as much trouble. The billet diameter was more or less unchanged for the barrel and the taper was OK, but I wanted to make sure the grip was pretty even. This is a lot more challenging than it looks (welcome to turning, I suppose), but I was wondering if there were any tricks to doing this. I can envision a jig that holds a tool at a consistent distance from the piece, ensuring a constant diameter, but I don't know how to translate that to reality (nor am I sure it's needed).

Sorby still sells a sizing clamp for its Bedan and parting tool.  https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Sorby-970-...B004HJ0J1A  Sets up quickly to do what turners have been doing to set sizes for years.  You just keep a set of wood blocks ripped to setting dimension for setup, as with calipers.  I've used it a few times, and it does prevent caliper bends due to its construction versus the part till you drop caliper technique.

Disagree strongly with some of the advice you've been given.  No need EVER to brace and lean on a spindle cut - or even a hollowing cut - if you're actually cutting across and peeling down, as you should be.  Even a dull tool will produce a sick shaving without the danger of dismounting the piece by pushing across the spin axis or "catching".  You keep the toolrest as close as possible, to limit the length of one lever arm and keep your guide hand (not your fulcrum/tool advance hand) at the distance which allows you to make modest adjustments to the cutting angles with larger, and thus more controlled, movements on the opposite end of the tool.  Mechanical advantage accrues, too.

Without knowing what your tools look like, it's difficult to say what will give you the best chance, other than to say that longer bevels peel better, and letting the wood slide down the edge as it turns will make carbide unnecessary.  Don't scrape with a tool and your shavings won't jump, but slide and fall.

Most sets have a sham roughing gouge with a U shape of perhaps 3/4 of an inch.   A good rougher starts at, I would say a minimum of 1 1/4", which means a broader sweep, though not as broad, of course, as a flat edge like  the skew or beading tools.  When fed properly, skewed to the axis of the turning, it will make a sequentially deeper cut, and a surface that 220 grit paper will only dull.  Even a straight edge will, if skewed away from the direction of advance, do the same, but current skews make you drop the handle too much to get that angle, where you sacrifice a bunch of mechanical advantage.  Which is why, I suppose, a lot of people think you have to lock and lean instead of using the edge like a shave.  You're whittling in motion, so lead with the bottom of the edge and slide, skewed, downhill for best effect.  

Stay above center when shaving, and you won't catch.  Won't work well if you're scraping, but the finishing part will be easier.  Sand along the grain to get rid of ridges.  Shoeshine fashion will make dips out of scrapes rather than just cutting the tops off. 

Other than the fact he doesn't know how to use a roughing gouge, this is pretty instructive. http://www.nickcookwoodturner.com/articl...e-tips.pdf
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#18
Well done on the bat!!!
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#19
I've been back at it. The carbide rougher tool showed up two days ago. It is very sharp and very easy to use. I've worked on my technique and have gotten a lot better about diameters. Haven't touched the roughing gouge, though I did look at a 1 1/4" Crown. Mine is 7/8" and needs constant sharpening. So, for that matter, does my skew. I have been using the skew more, though not in the way most places seem to tell me to use it. It saw a lot of use shaping the knob, and I use to smooth. It's being used in the same way the carbide rougher is, though, so I don't think that's right. It seems to work, so I do have that going for me.

The maple bat is HEAVY. It's a 34 inch bat and the ballpark weight, no paint or grip or anything, is about 45 ounces. Not game usable. It's pretty enough to use as a display piece though, or even as an on-deck warmup bat. I did laminate a few pieces of birch together and get better at matching dimensions, but it's still pretty heavy. I might try to use it in a game tomorrow, but that is probably a 40 ounce bat. For reference, the standard bats I use are probably -2 or -3 (33/31 or 33/30). 34/40 or 34/42 is pretty heavy. Big heavy bats have been used in the past, but I am not Joe DiMaggio.

I was looking at wood weights and it seems like all the common bat materials are heavy and roughly equivalent - ash, maple, hickory, birch. I think the next time I try I am going to create a custom laminated blank - hardwood for the knob and handle (probably hickory), maple for the outer core, and something light for the inner core like basswood or alder (maybe even fir). Now that I can turn a bat, I'd like to turn something that I can actually use in a game that's comfortable to swing and strong enough to last. At this point it's about saving weight.
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#20
It sounds like you are using the skew as a drop-nose scraper. Crown makes a drop nose scraper in their Glenn Lucas signature line that looks almost just like an Alan Lacer skew. I make sure to read the signature on mine before sharpening or applying to the wood.

Nothing wrong with that, but it does mean going back to the grinder for sharpening the skew more often vs just honing it with a diamond or CBN card.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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