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(09-19-2020, 06:36 PM)Bill_de Wrote: I still use the Original Titebond unless I want a little more working time, then I use 3.
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Same here, for edge gluing.
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I use TB II for most projects (indoor) and III for exterior.
Based on reading here, I’ll probably try TB Pily for my next exterior project.
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I only use TB III for all my wood working (except antiques then I use hide glue). I decided not to have multiple bottles in the shop - so I go with the one that will do it all. Not enough cost difference to make a difference IMO.
I do use poly glue at times. Usually for cold bending or when I screw up and have loose joints.
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(09-20-2020, 07:35 PM)John Mihich Wrote: I only use TB III for all my wood working (except antiques then I use hide glue). I decided not to have multiple bottles in the shop - so I go with the one that will do it all. Not enough cost difference to make a difference IMO.
I do use poly glue at times. Usually for cold bending or when I screw up and have loose joints.
Polyurethane glues are a poor choice of loose fitting joints; their gap filling ability is even worse than yellow glues. You want epoxy for that application.
John
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For cutting boards, I'll now use plastic resin or poly glue. I've had titebond III and titebond II fail on cutting board joints. It turns out that a lot of food processing involves exposing the woods to all sorts of liquids that are ultimately solvents for the PVA glues. The failed joints were clearly the result of the glue being chemically compromised over years of use. These were small maple strip utility boards about the size of typing paper. They got a lot of daily use in food processing.
The cold flow associated with PVA glues can be a blessing and a curse. A large piece of free-standing furniture on a floor slightly out of level will settle over time. While this can wreak havoc on tight fitting drawers and doors, those problems can be dealt with.
The thing that makes the biggest difference for me is good strong clamps and a well fitting edges when I'm doing flat panel glue-ups. The glue is secondary unless some crazy grained wood is used. Then the cold flow of the PVA glues can show joint slip over time.
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As it turns out I just got an e mail addressing your very question this morning. Titebond has introduced a new glue called
"Speed Set". So if you're looking for speed this might be the answer. It is a PVA glue with the magic (I guess) you seek.
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09-21-2020, 11:42 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-21-2020, 11:46 AM by Cooler.)
I use Titebond III for all my glue-ups. It is waterproof, but he reason I use it is because of the extended open time. It allows more time for clamping.
http://www.titebond.com/community/the-big-three
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I used Titebond III for the last dinning table I built 6 years ago. Made out of 8/4 QSWO. It has been moved 4 times to different climates and humidity zones. All joints are as good as the day I built it. One of the nice things about TB III is the extended working time and the initial "tack". When glueing up a panel I line up the edges and clamp them. Then loosen the clamps and and break the glued joint and line up the edged as perfectly as possible and reclamp. The glue is not and "slippery" as the first time clamping things seem to stay aligned better "tackier". Never had a panel or table top fail doing this.
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Project Farm did a comparison on most of the wood glues you might find interesting, including all 3 Titebonds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-g3efGa3sI
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one thing to consider how fast you want to start working on the piece you just glued up.....PVA glues can slightly swell the wood around the joint from the moisture in the glue. I suppose if you wet one side of the wood using polyurethane glue it could happen too.
then you sand/plane the board flat and the joint dries and you get a little depression along the glue line. I've had it happen when I used to use biscuits, ended up with little football shaped depressions along the glue line.
doesn't happen all the time, just once in a while.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick
Mark
