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3/4" T&G hardwoods install... You know, when you get 2-3 rows from the wall and can no longer use the nailer, and don't have enough room to bang the boards tight into place without hitting the wall with your mallet, tips/tricks for pulling those boards in tight and nailing down? Do they all have to be face nailed? Thought I could make some wedges but it's not working as well as I expected..
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Wedges and face nailed (then putty) is the normal way around here.
Patience is key when wedging
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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I'm not a professional, but I "think" I've done good work. I agree with the wooden wedges (make a few pairs), and in a few places I would use a flat bar (Mine are blue, Stanley calls them "wonderbars") hook the curved end back against a scrap board against the wall, prying the hardwood with the short end, and I've used blocks of wood jambed under the other end to hold in place. Probably a poor description.
I've also added some construction adhesive under them to help the cause.
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There is a tool called pull bar. About 12" long with each end bent at 90deg in opposite direction. You hook one end on the floor board and hit the other with a mallet. Works all the way to the wall. And yes, I have always had to face nail the last few and fill the holes.
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Harbor Freight sells a pull bar and wedge set cheap. Works well.
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Wedges and pry bars with a board against the wall to protect the sheetrock. I glue the tongue on the last 2 rows and tack it in with a nail gun. Then pre-drill and use long finish nails.
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(10-20-2020, 05:54 AM)Kansas City Fireslayer Wrote: Harbor Freight sells a pull bar and wedge set cheap. Works well.
ahh, a pull bar! Nice.. This will do the trick..
Thanks everybody for the tips!