Table saw with overhead dust collection

[BillinIN]

I'm beginning to think about a new table saw. Seems like there are a lot of nice options out there but I'm wondering if any have good overhead dust collection. The lower dust port on my current saw works fine but not so good above the table.  

Any feedback appreciated.  Thanks!

[fredhargis]

I've had 3, and here's how my experience went. Bear in mid, this is with a very stout DC, at first a 2.5 HP Penn State with shop, built cyclone, then an Oneida, and now a CV. Anyway, my first attempt was the Badger Pond shop built basket. It was OK, but I could never come up with a mounting system I liked. Next was a Shark Guard that clipped into the Bies snap on splitter i had on my Unisaw. I actually liked this one the best of the 3, and didn't know that until I bought my third one. #3 is the Excalibur overarm guard. It really is good, does an excellent job of dust collection. It just isn't as handy as the shark was when it comes to getting it out of the way for those times when you make a non through cut or use a jig. With the Shark, I just unsnapped it and lay it aside. With the Excalibur (currently sold under the Sawstop name) I have to slide the tube right, and it can be a PITA. I stay with the Ex because when I sold my Unisaw I let the Shark go with it. Also, my Excalibur is the original model, I think the new ones pivot out of the way. Since I bought it used, I got what i though was a fair price on it, and it's here to stay. I did replace the basket with a Shark made replacement, one of the last ones Lee himself made before his death, I think. But for all of these I had my 6" duct to the saw split off a 4" connection for the overarm...when you do that you need some pretty good air flow to catch it all and still capture what's below the table.

[R Clark]

Fred speaks from great experience.  Me...not so much.

My SawStop has the OEM overarm dust collector integrated into the blade guard; it's the only above the table collection setup I've ever had.  My dust collection system isn't robust enough to make it work acceptably. I do a lot of work with dados and my sleds, so the blade guard is not installed most of the time.  In fact, right now, the overarm collection tube is swung out of the way and capped off with duct tape.

My advice is to make sure your basic dust collection setup is up to the task.  My DC needs a fair amount of upgrades to make it better, and until that happens, above the table dust collection is way down on the list.

[fredhargis]

I guess I should have counted the Sawstop OEM guard in my tally. I replaced my Unisaw with a Sawstop, and only used the OEM pickup a couple of times before I got the DC hooked up. As far as dust collection goes, I found it to be completely unacceptable....mine was hooked to a shop vac. I wound up selling it to someone with a rigid saw who wanted to adapt it over (apparently that's a common thing) to his saw. While i didn't hook it to my DC, there's no doubt in my mind it would have been even worse than it was with the vac.

[BillinIN]

Thanks for the replies.  I've heard good things about Shark Guard. If and when I get a new saw, I may consider that. Seems there aren't many OEM options except the Saw Stop.

[Tapper]

Might be of interest.....

Review

Doug

[skeeterk]

BillinIN pid='7944216' dateline='1610998299']I'm beginning to think about a new table saw. Seems like there are a lot of nice options out there but I'm wondering if any have good overhead dust collection. The lower dust port on my current saw works fine but not so good above the table.  

Any feedback appreciated.  Thanks!

Not sure if building your own is an option but here's mine from 1992 when I bought my TS.

   

[BillinIN]

Might be of interest.....

Review

Doug

Thanks for that.  Very interesting review!

[Lumber Yard®]

I've been through a few versions of SG on my Unisaw over the years. The current ARK version is what I have on it now. If I were to ever change tablesaw models again (highly unlikely) the first thing I would order would be the SG to accessorize it. The things just work and unlike many OEM guards, I consider the SG an integral part of the saw. The ARK has taken a little more time to get used to then the fixed splitter versions but in the end I like the added functionality of the adjustable riving knife. You may want to look at some of the videos on the SG website to see the differences.

It's sad that we lost Lee (SG founder) as he was such a GREAT guy. I believe his kids continue to run the business and if they are anything close to what their dad was, you'll be in great hands. For the record, it's possible that I have some bias as Lee and I worked together on a few things in years past.

[measure once cut remeasure]

Unlike lumber yard, i have no personal bias to shark guard founder Lee.  I am positovely biased about the shark guard that i purchased from him.

There is a 4" galvanized pipe drop from the ceiling that ends at a about 3' above the talbe. To solidify the pipe drop i attahed a piece of wood 5" wide to the ceiling joist. The wood runs down along the length of the pipe. another piece of wood the same size is attached at a 90* angle along one edge the pipe is straped inside the "L" of the wood.  bear the bottom of the wood there are some hooks that i use to hang push sticks.  Wehn i need to use the saw without the guard, i can hang the guard on one of the hooks  

At the end of the pipe drop is a blast gate, and from the blast gate a 4" flex hose connecting to the 4" port on the guard.  The guard is attached to a fixed riving knife. There is plenty of suction provided by a 3 hp cyclone.  Small pieces of cutoff are often sucked up to the port in the guard. Once the saw is turned off and the blade stops, i lift the guard and close the blast gate to have the pieces drop into my hand.