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Thank you "dg152" and Fred for correcting my poor spelling, I am a very poor speller. In the business world I dictated letters and my poor spelling was not an issue. For many years I explained insurance benefits to employees and taught adult Sunday School. Often people would snicker and joke about my spelling on the white board. My response (not original by me) "It takes a mighty small person to spell a word only one way."
I am never offended when someone takes the time to correct and or help me.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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(01-31-2021, 04:44 PM)Jwelch Wrote: Thank you everyone for your input on this. I will take your advice and see what I can figure out for my saw. I will upload some pictures when I get things worked out. The biggest problem I have is I don't have a router so cutting thicker lumber to fit the table saw is a lot harder to do without that so I was trying to stay close to the thickness of the insert that it came with.
You don't need a router to help match the thickness. Simply drill or chisel out recesses where it rests on the tabs. Then use set screws to level it.
Semper fi,
Brad
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If I remember correctly from my old Craftsman saw, the issue was their saw required a thin insert. I also used hardboard for a quick and easy ZCI. To keep it from warping in the humid unconditioned shop, I glued a 3/4” square strip of hardwood on the underside, running from front to back. Placed it to the side of the blade away from the arbor, to avoid interference. That gave it the rigidity to prevent bowing.
John
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Plywood. In addition of 4 thru holes for leveling set screws, If there is any side play at all, I put 2 set screws in 1 side.
Anyone except me ever have a throat plate explode? 1/4 of it hit an overhead lite ablove the saw. Woke me up!
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
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Peachtree Woodworking also used to have the inserts for those older saws.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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(01-24-2021, 04:25 PM)Jwelch Wrote: I am looking for the best material to make a zero clearance throat plate for my craftsman table saw. It is a very old table saw and I can't find any information on available blanks to buy. I have created a few out of 1/4 inch hardwood board but the problem I am having is the humidity in southeast Texas causes them to warp. So I was wondering if there was any material that might hold up better to the climate in my area?
A good material to make cheap and effective throat plates out of is laminate flooring material. The kind that is laminated on both sides. It is made to resist swelling and is quite stiff. It is also thin enough for most saws. drill holes and use set screws as levelers.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
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(05-07-2021, 05:50 PM)Pirate Wrote: Plywood. In addition of 4 thru holes for leveling set screws, If there is any side play at all, I put 2 set screws in 1 side.
Anyone except me ever have a throat plate explode? 1/4 of it hit an overhead lite ablove the saw. Woke me up!
If the cause was the plate lifting I attach a fender washer under the insert on the end away from you. This prevents it from lifting. When making the first cut for the blade slot I put the fence over the insert close to where it will cut through to hold it in place. Roly
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(01-25-2021, 09:10 AM)brianwelch Wrote: Good source for inserts is MLCS woodworking, free shipping and reasonable pricing.
https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite...+table+saw
scroll down about 1/2 way...
Wow that's a good price.
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I got this tape for my chop saw. I don't know what will happen when I tilt the blade, but working OK other than that concern. Installs really easily. Haven't tried to remove one yet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68GTVK?psc...ct_details
This shows the use and installation. I cleaned my plate first with rubbing alcohol. It seems that is not required.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAXhU_XAyxQ
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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I've seen many people recommend corian or its equal as a zero clearance insert. I've worked with it a bit. It's brittle and can shatter easily sending shards. I would never use it as a zero clearance insert.
I prefer baltic birch plywood. To adjust the thickness just use a few layers of duct tap where it sits on the saw's tabs.
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