DC Motor Upgrade? Yay or Nay?

[fredhargis]

I replaced the motor on my Oneida, and that's along the lines of what I did. I sat mine on the workbench with the impeller overhanging the edge. I drove the shaft out of the impeller with a brass punch, rotating the impeller 1/4 turn between every 4-5 taps or so. Your method makes more sense. It was slow going on mine, took a while to get it apart.

[Stwood_]

Yes. I'd use a brass drift.

[TDKPE]

Yes. I'd use a brass drift.

Same here.  Wood can soften the shock to the shaft, which if it’s stuck, is what you want.  The bearings are shot anyway, so it’s not like you’re going to hurt them.  

If it’s not stuck but just snug, a wooden dowel may work fine.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Success!

Had a stick of walnut scrap. End of it now looks like hell, but it worked!

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Once I loosened the 10mm bolts securing the bell ends on, the rotor slid out. Had to use the puller to remove the bell end from the switch side, but that was easy.

Bearings are unsealed, and the grease inside each is thick and more solid than liquid.

6204Z and 6205Z

I assume the Z means they're not sealed, no? Is there any reason I shouldn't put sealed bearings on here? I'd rather do that if they'll fit. Which i think they will, just need to find the corresponding number.

And yes, they were both crunchy.

[TDKPE]

I assume the Z means they're not sealed, no?

Different manufacturers use different identifying schemes for seals and shields, but with NTN bearings, the single “Z” means the bearings have a single shield (one side only).  You can use dual shielded (“ZZ” suffix), or double sealed (“LLUN” contact seal, or “LLHN” non-contact or light-contact seal). Or single shield or sealed, of course.

To be honest, for a motor, single- or double-shielded is perfectly fine, as witnessed by the originals (single-shielded) lasting for decades.

[Stwood_]

To be honest, for a motor, single- or double-shielded is perfectly fine, as witnessed by the originals (single-shielded) lasting for decades.

+1

[Lumber Yard®]

I'm sorry to be a downer but it's thread like this that make you realize sometimes it's just easier to "bite the bullet" and order a new tool or even buy a quality used tool. Chasing your tail for months, as you try and hodge-podge something together IMO is wasted time and energy. In the end you might have a great machine but in the months and months you spent trying to get it up to snuff, some real woodworking could have been done. LOL

I know that when I was younger, I had less money than time and it made some sense. As I've gotten older, I've realized the hobby is woodworking and not machine rehab/refurb. You never get 100% away from machine maintenance etc. but those tasks don't take months to complete. You might find that your interests are different though. 

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

This one has taken about a month total.

I'm happy with that. One month or $3k+ for a ready made machine?

I'll take that month.

I've been doing this for years. Until I have the disposable income I can toss at things this will be my path.

(edit)

This is no longer a hobby for me. It's a small business. Until I'm profitable enough to justify the financial outlays for convenience, this is what I have to do.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Hey, Lumber Yard, revisiting this, I think I may have come across rudely in my response. I hope I didn't, as that wasn't my intent.

I agree with you on dropping the cash if you can and I often do. I grew up in poverty and now that I'm in my 40's and fairly well to do, I'm just *now* learning to kick the habit of "buy used and repair it". In this case, though, I couldn't justify the expenditure because I had already dropped *so* much (relative to current income) on getting the side business running.

I'm trying to get into the black before buying anything else that isn't supplies and consumables.