Higher TS Fence
#11
The other day I needed to cut 15 degree angles on a top for a cabinet I'm making. Although I got it done by using 3/4" plywood clamped to the regular fence. But was still uncomfortable doing it. What do any of you do? I would be interested in seeing alternatives.
Jim
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#12
One way is to use a hand plane: quick and easy (and enjoyable):

[Image: IMG-2499.jpg]
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#13
It depends on how long the bevel was, but if it was more than maybe 30-36", I think I would have used a 15º router bit. I would clamp a piece of stock to the back (or the top, don't know which side needed the bevel) of the top to make edge to ride the router on.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#14
(02-11-2021, 09:45 AM)Philip1231 Wrote: One way is to use a hand plane: quick and easy (and enjoyable):

[Image: IMG-2499.jpg]

Do you use a hand plane cross grain like on the ends?
Jim
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#15
(02-11-2021, 10:05 AM)fredhargis Wrote: It depends on how long the bevel was, but if it was more than maybe 30-36", I think I would have used a 15º router bit. I would clamp a piece of stock to the back (or the top, don't know which side needed the bevel) of the top to make edge to ride the router on.

The bevel is 1 7/8", so that ruled out a router bit. That I know of.
Jim
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#16
(02-11-2021, 10:17 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: Do you use a hand plane cross grain like on the ends?

Absolutely: with beautiful results!
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#17
(02-11-2021, 10:17 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: Do you use a hand plane cross grain like on the ends?

(02-11-2021, 10:22 AM)Philip1231 Wrote: Absolutely: with beautiful results!

Me, too.  But I use my Stanley 60 1/2 low angle block plane.  Sharp blade, tight mouth, and the plane skewed will bevel the end just fine.
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#18
Is there any chance you could have cut the piece laying flat?
Semper fi,
Brad

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#19
It's trickier with a 1 7/8" wide bevel because it would require several setups, but there is a method that allows cutting it flat on the tablesaw. That is to use a dado set, as wide as possible. Tilt the blade to the angle complement, and cut with the top of the blade not the side. There are two problems with the approach: you need to adjust both the fence and the blade height for each pass that widens the bevel, and most dado sets make at least small scoring lines at the edges of the cut. But this allows access to angles 90 degrees from the usual ones.
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#20
Tongue 
(02-13-2021, 09:56 AM)Alan S Wrote: It's trickier with a 1 7/8" wide bevel because it would require several setups, but there is a method that allows cutting it flat on the tablesaw.  That is to use a dado set, as wide as possible.  Tilt the blade to the angle complement, and cut with the top of the blade not the side.  There are two problems with the approach: you need to adjust both the fence and the blade height for each pass that widens the bevel, and most dado sets make at least small scoring lines at the edges of the cut.  But this allows access to angles 90 degrees from the usual ones.

Dah! Why didn't I think of that?
Confused
Jim
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