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(02-23-2021, 11:09 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: No Tormek, never will have one, 2 minutes to rehone usually.
10 strokes on a leather strop. Done.
Why all the stropping? Am I missing something?
I can get very good results also with my current methods. I am exploring other methods to possibly speed things up and even improve my results. After this exploration, I will know if this is worthwhile - for me.
Steve
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Steve, as Jack notes, 3600 is too fast. Even half speed is too fast for leather.
If you really want to strop at speed, get a stitched cloth wheel.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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02-23-2021, 12:01 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-23-2021, 12:02 PM by Timberwolf.)
(02-23-2021, 11:20 AM)arnman Wrote: The idea I had in mind for using the belt grinder with leather belt was to approach it from the front - with the belt moving downward. BUT I would have to place the blade against the belt so it trails on the belt.
I was thinking of building a jig to help with this - a beveled wood block placed on the table in front of the belt, which would guide the angle of the blade (bevel) as it is moved into contact with the moving belt.
I am still not throwing away the idea of the leather wheel, but I will compare the rim speeds of smaller wheels to achieve something comparable to a 6 inch wheel at 1725 rpm. ...........
Take a look at the way this guy modified his belt grinder to turn away from the edge and in a horizontal fashion...I have a new HF machine just waiting to be converted..
To reply to another post, if you have never mastered power stropping, you wont be able to realize just how sharp a blade "can" be...when you can touch a single hair above the skin and have it pop off your arm, you will realize what I am talking about. Imagine how many strokes by hand that would take compared to a moving belt or wheel. That level may not be necessary for plane irons or chisels, but IMO it sure is nice for woodcarving knives.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3KuS8K37YA
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(02-22-2021, 07:32 PM)arnman Wrote: I am thinking about getting a leather wheel like this one to mount on a 3600 rpm grinder, to try to finish the sharpening process, and touch up the edge between sharpenings. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Width-Leather-Hon...B07Z2ZN9YK
I have already reversed the rotation of the wheels, so the top of the wheel will be spinning away from me.
I use a tormek to grind bevels, and I use that leather wheel already. I also have and use a flat, thick leather strop. I am looking at this as another option to possibly speed things up.
Comments would be appreciated.
I've got a stropping rig with an old washing machine motor and a hard felt wheel. The green stick does the slick, while the wheel does the rub. Don't need to be too careful of "drubbing" if you have a place to rest the tool. My carving mentor used similar, but I find ceramic slips work on both inside and out when carving. They don't strop, but the edges make a good cut even if they're not shiny.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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(02-23-2021, 12:02 PM)MichaelMouse Wrote: I've got a stropping rig with an old washing machine motor and a hard felt wheel. The green stick does the slick, while the wheel does the rub. Don't need to be too careful of "drubbing" if you have a place to rest the tool. My carving mentor used similar, but I find ceramic slips work on both inside and out when carving. They don't strop, but the edges make a good cut even if they're not shiny. ...................
Extremely sharp, polished edges can be a disadvantage, depending on the material to be cut...meat for example....then too, thin edges are weaker, no matter the type of steel..Like they say, "you don't choose a straight razor to skin a bear,."....
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Timberwolf, thanks for posting that video. I like the horizontal approach much more.
My 1x42 is the old Mead / Belsaw type. I might look into reconfiguring it for horizontal, otherwise I suppose I could swallow my pride and venture into HF.
Steve
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02-23-2021, 03:06 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-23-2021, 03:07 PM by Timberwolf.)
(02-23-2021, 01:32 PM)arnman Wrote: Timberwolf, thanks for posting that video. I like the horizontal approach much more.
My 1x42 is the old Mead / Belsaw type. I might look into reconfiguring it for horizontal, otherwise I suppose I could swallow my pride and venture into HF.
...............
I think one of mine is a Mead/Belsaw...It can take 30" OR 42" belts, has maple wheels, Baldor reversible motor, steel table that folds...had it for about 40yrs. great machine...
I would not doubt that HF grinder is among their hottest selling items..They just keep chugging along and lots of knife makers swear by them and AT them!!!
Lots of Youtubes where guys have souped them up...
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I have a tormek and I like their leather wheel. I have also been looking at different methods of stropping on YouTube. The reason is, I had my grandson over and we did a set of chisels I bought him for Christmas. He is 14. His eyes lite up when we did the paper test before and after stropping. Obviously I am not going to buy him a Tormek but just exactly what I could do so that he can can almost the same results.
From what I can glean from everything, is the harder the leather, the better it works. The only experience I have is with the tormek wheel and it is hard and it only take a few seconds and you are done. So I would think that about the only place to do the stropping would be on the upper wheel of the belt sander, if using a 1 inch belt sander.
I do like Timberwolf's strop because he can control the tension of the belt accosted the platen. In the video the guy ground from the same side and on one of the cuts the cutting edge was into the belt direction and that will dub the cutting edge. I would have worked from both sides of the belt thus keeping the grit ( Belt) direction away from the cutting edge. Of course his was not a demonstration on sharpening, but blade preparation.
I went out out town today so hopefully I will get pictures of the hand drill. I tried it but I am not sure if i ever really gave it a chance. I Didn't have any buffing compound at the time so tomorrow is a good time to test it.
I am also wondering what a new tormek leather wheel would cost. It has a 12 MM hole. easy enough to get it to work in a hand drill. Just thinking out loud.
Tom
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02-23-2021, 09:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-23-2021, 09:45 PM by Timberwolf.)
(02-23-2021, 07:53 PM)tablesawtom Wrote: I have a tormek and I like their leather wheel. I have also been looking at different methods of stropping on YouTube. The reason is, I had my grandson over and we did a set of chisels I bought him for Christmas. He is 14. His eyes lite up when we did the paper test before and after stropping. Obviously I am not going to buy him a Tormek but just exactly what I could do so that he can can almost the same results.
From what I can glean from everything, is the harder the leather, the better it works. The only experience I have is with the tormek wheel and it is hard and it only take a few seconds and you are done. So I would think that about the only place to do the stropping would be on the upper wheel of the belt sander, if using a 1 inch belt sander.
I do like Timberwolf's strop because he can control the tension of the belt accosted the platen. In the video the guy ground from the same side and on one of the cuts the cutting edge was into the belt direction and that will dub the cutting edge. I would have worked from both sides of the belt thus keeping the grit ( Belt) direction away from the cutting edge. Of course his was not a demonstration on sharpening, but blade preparation.
I went out out town today so hopefully I will get pictures of the hand drill. I tried it but I am not sure if i ever really gave it a chance. I Didn't have any buffing compound at the time so tomorrow is a good time to test it.
I am also wondering what a new tormek leather wheel would cost. It has a 12 MM hole. easy enough to get it to work in a hand drill. Just thinking out loud.
Tom
. Tom, ...Cletus, who is a member here, made a belt grinder/power strop using my MKII design which is so simple it is pathetic..I told him to use a hole saw to bore a wheel out of 1" hardwood stock, bore the center of that wheel to fit his motor shaft and epoxy it on..Use the motor as a wood lathe to turn it round and with a slight crown for tracking. A good skate board wheel can become the idler wheel...it does not need crowning. It does not even need to be "spring loaded". The first one I ever made used 4X 24" belts ripped into one in strips..it was small and had a very small Bodine motor..I used it to sharpen my carving knives while camping in my motor home. It was mounted on an 8"X12" board.
You can make another Tormek strop wheel out of wood..just glue leather to the rim making a scarf joint on a long angle to reduce or eliminate the "bump" effect, Make it any diameter you want...to fit any shaft..
Anybody can buy these things but I get lots of joy in making them myself as long as I am able.
I hink you do also... It's in our blood!!!
Here's a short video of a slow-speed commercial sharpener and t is similar to my commercial Loray sharpener..except the Loray is belt drive.. A angle "ramp" could be made that would swing down to hold any angle of your choice to the belt..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeGhGDRHQZM
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02-24-2021, 03:36 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-24-2021, 09:54 PM by arnman.)
(02-23-2021, 09:28 PM)Timberwolf Wrote: ...Cletus, who is a member here, made a belt grinder/power strop using my MKII design which is so simple it is pathetic..I told him to use a hole saw to bore a wheel out of 1" hardwood stock, bore the center of that wheel to fit his motor shaft and epoxy it on..Use the motor as a wood lathe to turn it round and with a slight crown for tracking. A good skate board wheel can become the idler wheel...it does not need crowning. It does not even need to be "spring loaded". The first one I ever made used 4X 24" belts ripped into one in strips..it was small and had a very small Bodine motor..I used it to sharpen my carving knives while camping in my motor home. It was mounted on an 8"X12" board.
Timberwolf, I now remember your belt grinder design - I downloaded a pdf file of the design from this site some time back. It might have been drawn by Cletus. Back then, it was more than I wanted to bite off. It does not look quite as challenging now. I think I would rather make your design than buy the HF.
Steve
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