Drill Press Question: Rockwell/Delta Radial: Adjusting for Perpendicularity
#21
I dug around in my dirty paper and found a listing for that motor.  62-142 from the Rockwell era is listed as heavy duty, and has ball bearings (6203-2RS on both ends it looks like).  I found that motor in the same catalog I got from the dealer when I bought my radial DP, printed 5/73.  That's not the same budget sleeve bearing split-phase motor that's on my budget 10" DP, though.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#22
Bob:I believe you are absolutely correct. I went with the quick and dirty approach: a little oil dripped into the top bearing seems to have done the trick. If it ever needs new bearings, I think I will bring it to my local motor shop and let the experts deal with it. Thanks! Phil

(03-08-2021, 10:20 PM)Bob Vaughan Wrote: That's very likely a ball bearing motor.
Remove the four long bolts and you can pop it apart.  Mark where the end bells align with the motor body first. 
Changing the bearings may require a little ingenuity, depending on what resources you have at hand.
The bearings are likely the 6203 size but it could be a 6203 at the front and a 6202 at the back.  I've not delved into that specific motor before.
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#23
Tom: I think I got a later vintage motor here: real ball bearings and a full 1/2 HP: I am a happy camper. Fired it up today without the belt and after shutting it down it just kept spinning and spinning and spinning: that has to be a good sign! Thanks for the help. I will post another pic when I am done with the cleanup. Thanks again! Phil

(03-09-2021, 06:54 AM)TDKPE Wrote: I dug around in my dirty paper and found a listing for that motor.  62-142 from the Rockwell era is listed as heavy duty, and has ball bearings (6203-2RS on both ends it looks like).  I found that motor in the same catalog I got from the dealer when I bought my radial DP, printed 5/73.  That's not the same budget sleeve bearing split-phase motor that's on my budget 10" DP, though.
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#24
Trying to dial in the DP today: looking for good perpendicularity of bit relative to work surface. Standing in front of the machine, there are easy adjustments to get it perpendicular. Standing to the side of the machine, where you are now trying to establish perpendicularity front/back so to speak: not so good. You can see the gap in the picture between the drill bit and square at the end closest to the chuck. This dimension relies on perfect fit between the drilling head and horizontal crossbar, between the horizontal crossbar and the horizontal/vertical T-fitting, and between the vertical post and the adjustable work table. The work table is slightly off, but in the direction that would help the overall situation. I have attempted to loosen all the aforementioned joints and apply pressure in the direction that would correct the problem: no luck. Can't seem to find anything that was built into the tool that allows this adjustment to be made. Any thoughts? Yes, I know I can shim the particleboard work table and get this dialed in, but it seems to me that I should be able to dial this in without having to shim the auxiliary table.

   

   
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#25
I'd use a fly cutter or bent coat hanger to tram an auxiliary table.
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#26
(03-12-2021, 02:22 PM)Phil Thien Wrote: I'd use a fly cutter or bent coat hanger to tram an auxiliary table.

Just out of academic curiosity, I decided to see how many strips of 3M blue tape it would take to shim the aux. table to get it perpendicular: 10 layers (or about 1/32"). But I still wonder how folks deal with this issue if, for example, they are more of a machinist and want to have the cast iron table exposed and available for clamping, etc? Surely, there must be a way to dial it in using the frame of the DP?
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#27
(03-12-2021, 02:44 PM)Philip1231 Wrote: Just out of academic curiosity, I decided to see how many strips of 3M blue tape it would take to shim the aux. table to get it perpendicular: 10 layers (or about 1/32"). But I still wonder how folks deal with this issue if, for example, they are more of a machinist and want to have the cast iron table exposed and available for clamping, etc? Surely, there must be a way to dial it in using the frame of the DP?

There are no adjustments, at least none that I've ever seen.  

But remember that it's very light duty, and moving that head out will allow significant elastic deflection with down force on the bit.  I never count on it for anything requiring precision.  

You want real precision, or the start of it at least, in a radial DP, jump up in size to a much larger vintage Delta.  Or a mill. 

   
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#28
When you loosened up the joints and tried applying pressure to realign the nod of your drill press did you raise the table and use the quill feed to assist you? This would apply much more force than one can apply by hand. Make sure to use a scrap of wood to protect the table and chuck nose and open it up so the jaws are inside the body if you do this.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
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#29
OK, I can see this is going to be a very slippery slope. Maybe I'll go big and just get a Haas machine tool and be done with it
Big Grin


(03-12-2021, 03:08 PM)TDKPE Wrote: There are no adjustments, at least none that I've ever seen.  

But remember that it's very light duty, and moving that head out will allow significant elastic deflection with down force on the bit.  I never count on it for anything requiring precision.  

You want real precision, or the start of it at least, in a radial DP, jump up in size to a much larger vintage Delta.  Or a mill. 
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#30
Interesting suggestion: I did not attempt that, and I would be leery about doing that as it may apply too much force to the lower thrust bearing, which I had issues with earlier. I think I will bring all these joints back to their nominal position and just shim the aux table: an inelegant but workable solution.


(03-13-2021, 07:49 AM)KyleD Wrote: When you loosened up the joints and tried applying pressure to realign the nod of your drill press did you raise the table and use the quill feed to assist you? This would apply much more force than one can apply by hand. Make sure to use a scrap of wood to protect the table and chuck nose and open it up so the jaws are inside the body if you do this.
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