Last year before we decided to put the farm on the market in VA, I caught a big clearance at Woodcraft and grabbed a half dozen knife kits, to have something to do over the winter. Then... decluttering, packing, moving, looking for the new place, moving in, unpacking... setting up the shop... just haven't had the time. I decided it was time to work on a Knife to pass some time. I also wanted to make a fix bladed knife to go with the new grips Gary made for my Match 1911. He made two pairs, Spalted Maple, which I already had a knife for,
and Cocobola, which I didn't.
I figured now was the time. I would get out into the shop and out of this recliner. I had been stuck here with all this nasty weather. I get the knife to go with the grips, and out of the dang house after all this snow and cold weather. Miss Tina hasn't let me out with the risk of falls.
Jim in Okie You can tell a lot about the character of a man - By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
03-13-2021, 10:23 AM (This post was last modified: 03-13-2021, 10:23 AM by BrokenOlMarine.)
I'll post this build along for those that want to take the trip... I made a few mistakes, and a few of you KNOW a lot more about it than I do. I could always use some tips. It's a journey, but it passes the time. I wish I actually knew how to make the blanks myself, and had the equipment to do it. Loved "Forged in Fire" when I had Amazon Prime. Well, I still have prime, but our internet sux out here.
To get started, I chose another Tanto Kit from the half dozen that have been hibernating in the box from Woodcraft. I like the kits. They are reasonably priced and these were dirt cheap. 70% off for some reason. Anywho, I chose another Tanto as I am keeping this one for myself.
Then I chose a nice blank of wood to go with it, that will compliment the grips, and marked it down the center to bookmatch. I ran it across the jointer on the edge to have a flat side and then thru the bandsaw to make the cut.
Jim in Okie You can tell a lot about the character of a man - By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
My next step was to mark the wood blanks and cut the rough shape of the scales on the bandsaw. I don't try and cut the scales to the exact size of the blanks. I tried this on the first couple of knives I made and it didn't work out to well for me. But, that's just me. I prefer to cut them oversized to insure I get the proper coverage, and then bring them down during shaping and smoothing to a perfect fit.
My next step is to match the blanks together and tape them with painters tape and to round over the front edge that will be against the blade. You have to do this before you epoxy the scales in place or you'll spend HOURS with micro files and VERY thin strips of sandpaper attempting to accomplish this. THIS is a mistake you only want to make ONCE.
I worked the scales on the benchtop belt sander with the shopvac attached to help control the dust and I wore my dust mask. The dust from this stuff will make your eyes burn and your nose run something fierce.
Jim in Okie You can tell a lot about the character of a man - By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
Next step is to rough up the shaft of the knife blank where the scales will attach, to insure a tight bond for the epoxy. You don't want a polished shiny metal surface, nor do you want a glass smooth wood contact. You WANT a smooth flat wood contact, but not too smooth. Too much off a good thing and you won't get good adhesion. I use 220 sandpaper to rough it up just a bit and am careful to stay in the areas that will be covered by the scales. That way I don't have to work my way back up through the grits to re-polish the metal. (Yup, BTDT)
For epoxy, I like these paired epoxy syringes, so you always get a measured dose of the two parts. NO guesswork. This five minute stuff is great, but you have to have your sh..
ah, stuff together. You can't apply the epoxy and then remember you still need to.... Nope, doesn't work that way. Test fit, test fit, and when you are sure, glue up the one side and clamp it.
Once I get the scale in place, I check the forward edge first, then insure the other sides are providing full coverage. Then I apply the clamps, and tighten. Then recheck all the positioning cues. Then further tighten. You have five minutes. In twenty you have working strength. In twenty four hours, full strength. I give it two hours, then use the holes in the knife blank to drill the holes thru using the drill press. Of course there are three different bits needed.
I then glue up the second side and clamp it, following the same mantra... check, clamp, recheck, tighten, recheck, tighten. Then I leave the knife to sit on the bench overnight to attain full strength. My only regret in this build is that I didn't put at least two blanks on the bench. The smell of the epoxy is nasty. If the shop is going to smell that way I would like to have remembered to prep two sets of scales and two sets of knife blanks to this point. Then I could have spent the next week in finishing the shaping and smoothing.
As you can see, the scales are cut oversized to insure full coverage. I'll bring them down to the blank in the shaping and smoothing stage.
Jim in Okie You can tell a lot about the character of a man - By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
03-13-2021, 10:58 AM (This post was last modified: 03-13-2021, 11:01 AM by BrokenOlMarine.)
A peek at the shop. In the left foreground, the bandsaw. In the left background the shopvac is still attached to the benchtop belt sander. Center in the background, the knife is in the clamps on the bench. The shop is a bit messy, but I don't do a full cleanup after every stage of a project. I pick up. I put away the tools I am done with of course, and then pick up the debris from the floor to avoid falls. I remove unneeded clutter from the bench or other work areas, but I don't sweep up the sawdust or dust the other shop surfaces, since the very next steps in the process will cover everything in dust again. How about you guys?
After the overnight to set the epoxy, The first thing I did was take the knife to the drill press and using the holes in the one side of the scales as a guide, drill thru to the other side using the three bits I had left out for that purpose. Always being careful to keep the knife flat. We do this now, while the scales are still flat and level.
Now, it's time to start the shaping. I used the 1x30 benchtop belt sander. Starting with 80 grit, I got busy. I roll the edges and work smoothly from one end of the scales to the other. It doesn't take long to begin to get a feel for the shape.
At the end of a couple hours work, and working up to 240 grit, I felt that we were getting there. Two views of the progress.
Jim in Okie You can tell a lot about the character of a man - By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
Now comes the pucker factor. All the work up to this point can get shafted in one step. Time to countersink the hardware. Luckily I bought the special knifemakers bit set. Just have to find the right bit. Then hold the knife square, and get the depth just right. I use the hardware and make a number of small passes on the drill press until I get the cut just right rather than trying to eyeball it.
I made the four cuts, with about a half dozen passes on each cut, and they came out nice. The hardware on the two center cuts won't be installed until after final wax and polish, but the cuts are done. I wasn't happy with the length of the front edge hardware, WAY too short. Several options. I could sand down the wood, a LOT. Nope, like the shape and feel of the scales the way they are. I can buy some steel rod and make studs to fill the holes. Nah. I can Plug the holes... Yup.
Jim in Okie You can tell a lot about the character of a man - By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
My first idea for the plug was to use short pieces of shish ka bob skewers the wife was going to toss years ago that I have found a hundred uses for in the shop. I would center them in the hole, then once the glue dried, fill both sides with stained putty or mix sawdust (saved earlier) with some glue and boom... done.
I was NOT happy with the way this was shaping up and never got to the second step in the process. I pulled the scraps from cutting out the scales from the top of the bin, and shaping them on the benchtop belt sander using the drill bit card, I basically made a pair of 5/32 dowels.
I plugged the holes with dowels made from the offcuts of the scale material and when the glue dried, cut it flush and sanded it smooth. NOW ... BOOM... done.
Jim in Okie You can tell a lot about the character of a man - By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
We were now at the point where I was moving into the final shaping and finishing. I had worked up thru the grits to 400, but before I changed over... I slipped into the house and grabbed the kitchen knife I had made for the wife more than five years ago. A Damascus kit with curly cherry scales that is her "go to" favorite. It was showing it's age from use, and from a number of trips thru the dishwasher. It won't be making any more trips there, we both agree.
I hit the scales with the 240 grit to smooth it up, then switched it over to 400 and worked over both knives until I saw happy with the wood and the metal. Then it was time to put the Watco Oil on them both. The Tanto got two coats of Medium Walnut Oil. The Kitchen Knife two coats of Watco Natural to pop that Curly Cherry. They were both left to soak in the oils overnight.
A Safety Note:
Please notice that throughout this thread, both blades have been kept covered for safety. The Tanto has been kept in the plastic sleeve provided by Woodcraft, and the kitchen knife got a double layer of painters tape. IF the plastic sleeve had been loose, it would have been taped to the blade at the hilt. Safety First. I have bled enough. LOL.
Jim in Okie You can tell a lot about the character of a man - By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
After allowing the knives to soak overnight, I wiped them both down well with a soft cloth, then we were ready for waxing. I use this British Beeswax. I love the finish you get, and the number of coats determines the luster. A couple coats will give you a soft sheen, my preferred finish. A half dozen nicely buffed coats will build up a nice luster. In addition, if you ding up a piece that has the Watco Oil/Beeswax finish, you dab the ding with watco, wipe. Dab, wipe. Let it dry. Wax and buff, and normally the area will match perfectly.
A side benefit? I love the smell of this wax. It smells GREAT. Not like that purple ink from high school mimeograph machines that had all the class huffing the paper on the pop quizzes hot off the press.... and taking a quick trip around the classroom... Just a great smell. Beats the heck out of that NASTY epoxy.
I waxed both knives with a soft cloth, and let the wax dry to a soft haze, then buffed them with the cloth. Applying a second coat, I buffed them with the stitched cotton buffing wheel on my bench grinder, marked WAXING only. Beautiful
The Tanto is done. Now I will need to make a sheath for it. This will entail unpacking all my leather working tools. I ordered a head knife last night and it's due in, tomorrow.
I need to set up a leather working area in the shop... another task. I'll make it happen.
The kitchen knife is done as well and Miss T is thrilled to have 'er back in service. She miss it. (Yeah, right. Out of service for less than 12 hours.)
Jim in Okie You can tell a lot about the character of a man - By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
Nice write up, especially the part on smoothing the front of the scales. I bought a Woodcraft blade years ago, looks exactly like the last photo, and my wife uses it all the time.
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He made two pairs, Spalted Maple, which I already had a knife for, 
Well, I still have prime, but our internet sux out here. 
Anywho, I chose another Tanto as I am keeping this one for myself. 
I prefer to cut them oversized to insure I get the proper coverage, and then bring them down during shaping and smoothing to a perfect fit.
