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03-16-2021, 07:57 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-16-2021, 07:58 AM by Peter Tremblay.)
Hello all,
I'm nearing the end of my first home made backsaw project. No pics yet, sorry I haven't taken any
My question is about seating the saw plate into the milled (not folded) brass back. Is the plate just kept in place with pressure or is there some type of adhesive added to secure it in place?
FYI it's a 12" carcass saw with a bloodwood handle.
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(03-16-2021, 07:57 AM)Peter Tremblay Wrote: Hello all,
I'm nearing the end of my first home made backsaw project. No pics yet, sorry I haven't taken any
My question is about seating the saw plate into the milled (not folded) brass back. Is the plate just kept in place with pressure or is there some type of adhesive added to secure it in place?
FYI it's a 12" carcass saw with a bloodwood handle.
..................
Hi Peter...nice to see you posting again....On the saw..I think most folks just depend on a tight press fit to hold it securely, but I would add some "insurance" by also applying a little epoxy to it....and wipe off all external traces of it....What could it hurt????
Often Tested. Always Faithful. Brothers Forever
Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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(03-16-2021, 09:32 AM)Timberwolf Wrote: ..................
Hi Peter...nice to see you posting again....On the saw..I think most folks just depend on a tight press fit to hold it securely, but I would add some "insurance" by also applying a little epoxy to it....and wipe off all external traces of it....What could it hurt????
Thanks, Jack,
That was kind of my thoughts too, "what could it hurt"?
I lurk often enough but don't post as often as I used to. But I'm still keeping busy in the shop
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Used the green LocTite and it had been fine on a saw kit I bought years ago with a milled back.
Fortunately I didn't have to buy a bottle just for this application, borrowed it from machinist friend and returned when done.
I can't tell you exactly which of the green LocTite formulas it was though. Just looked to see if I could find a price and several different formula numbers appear! It wasn't particularly thin so I don't think it was the wicking formula. But one thing all the "green" formulas have in common is they are the most expensive.
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03-16-2021, 10:50 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-16-2021, 10:50 AM by Alan S.)
I made one that is just held in place by the brass spine pinching the back. It hasn't moved over the years since I made it, and if it were to get hit, I like that it has somewhere for the energy to go without real damage.
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(03-16-2021, 07:57 AM)Peter Tremblay Wrote: My question is about seating the saw plate into the milled (not folded) brass back. Is the plate just kept in place with pressure or is there some type of adhesive added to secure it in place?
Check Tools For Working Wood instructions for their kit saws. Mine came prefitted and sharpened but I don't recall any adhesive being involved, and don't think any is necessary. Most fit was adjusted by careful pinch hammering and tapping the back into desired position.
Heirlooms are self-important fiction so build what you like. Someone may find it useful.
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(03-16-2021, 10:59 AM)hbmcc Wrote: Check Tools For Working Wood instructions for their kit saws. Mine came prefitted and sharpened but I don't recall any adhesive being involved, and don't think any is necessary. Most fit was adjusted by careful pinch hammering and tapping the back into desired position.
..............
No question that pinching the blade is an excellent method of trapping the steel..even a folded back spine "pinches" the steel..but I am also pretty convinced that an epoxy such as JB Weld is very effective also..I made this saw ~15yrs ago..The "spine" is just two pieces of 1/8"X3/4" brass stock sandwiching the steel blade...no rivets and no "slots"...just a sandwich...but the adhesive is making full area contact on all surfaces...approximately 15sq inches. That JB Weld must be pretty good stuff...
![[Image: fullsizeoutput-640.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/XvvXBkvq/fullsizeoutput-640.jpg)
Often Tested. Always Faithful. Brothers Forever
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(03-16-2021, 10:08 AM)Rob Young Wrote: Used the green LocTite and it had been fine on a saw kit I bought years ago with a milled back.
Fortunately I didn't have to buy a bottle just for this application, borrowed it from machinist friend and returned when done.
I can't tell you exactly which of the green LocTite formulas it was though. Just looked to see if I could find a price and several different formula numbers appear! It wasn't particularly thin so I don't think it was the wicking formula. But one thing all the "green" formulas have in common is they are the most expensive.
Green Loctite is called a medium strength wicking grade thread locker to fill in gaps between mating surfaces. Supposed to be removable with hand tools. Hope that helps.
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I use loctite 270 but any of that kind will do. Klaus used a clear white "glue" . Weicon AN 302-40.
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(03-18-2021, 03:23 PM)Pedder Wrote: I use loctite 270 but any of that kind will do. Klaus used a clear white "glue" . Weicon AN 302-40.
Thanks, Pedder
It's good to hear from you. I was using your DT saw to cut the curf for the saw plate 0.025 of this carcass saw. I love your DT saw! Every time I pick it up and use it a smile comes across my face.
